Beogram 4002 (5513): New Wood Plinth, Dust Cover, Keypad and Installation of a Commander Remote Control System

I recently functionally restored a Beogram 4002 (Type 5513) for a customer in Virginia. He decided to also get its cosmetics upgraded with a new walnut 4000c style wood plinth, hood and keypad, and also get a Beolover Commander remote control system installed.

This shows the final condition of the unit:

Beolovely! Almost like new!

My first project was replacing the cracked wood plinth:

Its left front corner had taken a hit at some point:

I put the frame into the oven at 250F. After baking it for 30 min I took it out and with a carpet knife cut the wood panels from the metal fixtures. The glue gets weakened by the heat treatment and the metal parts are easily liberated when hot. The more difficult task is the removal of the hardened old glue remnants. I usually soak the parts in Goo Gone for 24 hrs. I spray the product on and then wrap the parts in plastic foil to prevent drying out:

After 24 hrs the glue can be rubbed off with a bit of effort. This shows the cleaned parts after washing them with dish detergent:

I use 3M 300LSE double sided tape for glueing the parts into the new frame. This shows the tape backed parts together with the new 4000c style walnut frame:

I use two small Beogram 400x aluminum cover plates as alignment help for gluing the metal frame pieces at the right height into the wood frame:

I also use a strip of parchment paper on one side of the metal parts for keeping it from sticking while pushing it into the corner on the other end. The aluminum plates have a thickness that matches the machined recess in the wood frame perfectly, which makes it easy to glue the metal parts at the proper level. This shows the nice alignment achieved with this method:

Her a shot of a corner:

Beolovely! On to the keypad.

This shows the original keypad with finger smudges (on the right) together with the restored keypad that I installed:

The first step was replacing the cracked original plastic brackets that hold the RPM panel in place. They often crack when people pry out the RPM panel in an off angle:

Luckily there are perfectly reproduced replacements available at the DKsoundparts store in Denmark. This shows the two new replacements together with the extracted original parts:

All one needs to do is transferring the metal springs to the new parts:

This pictures shows them installed:

And here bolted into the new keypad:

The new brackets need to be adjusted that the RPM panel is flush with the left keypad side:

Before I put in the new keypad I installed the Beolover Commander remote control receiver board:

It plugs directly into the keypad jack of the main PCB. This shows the keypad installed with the Commander auto-repeat indicator LED bolted in under the keypad screw:

My customer also wanted a new Beolover Carriage Motor for Beogram 4000, 4002, and 4004 installed. This upgrade makes the carriage run more quietly while drawing less current, which protects the H-bridge transistors. This shows the original motor still in place:

I unsoldered the leads and took it out. This shows the original motor still in the enclosure together with the new replacement:

The new replacement fits perfectly into the space with the two provided rubber rings for damping its vibrations:

This shows it bolted in with the leads soldered back on:

The final upgrade was a new hood. This shows the new hood together with a new aluminum trim strip:

The first step of the transfer is unbolting the old hood from the metal hinge. The screws are easily accessed after prying off the aluminum trim on the sides of the hood. This reveals the mounting screws:

The centered alignment of the new strip is a snap when using the Beolover alignment aides (orange):

I usually use a blue tape strip for making a pencil alignment mark:

Once the alignment has been marked, the hinge can be bolted into the new hood and the trim can be installed:

A crucial moment is the bending of the side parts. The Beolover bending block that is included with our trims helps getting a precise corner fold:

This shows one of the corners:

Beolovely! And here a picture of the completed hood assembly:

This Beogram was now not only perfectly restored on the inside, but also in perfect cosmetic condition on the outside! Here a few pictures showing off its lovely looks:

Beogram 4002 (5513): Brand New Hood Fatally Damaged Due to Bent Hood Hinges! - Straightening Hinges Out and Installation of Another Hood

I recently restored a Beogram 4002 (Type 5513) for a customer in Florida. This unit also received a new hood, which was procured from the beoparts-shop in Denmark. These hoods are exact replicas of the original ones, i.e. do not have any seams from glueing laser cut plexiglass panels together. They are die-cast like the original ones. Very awesome!

Unfortunately, in this particular case the a strange thing happened: The newly installed hood slightly chafed on the hinge back when closing it. This happened about halfway between fully open and closed. When I installed it I did not really take this issue seriously since it was not very noticeable. I basically put it in the 'in the 70s the manufacturing tolerances were a bit looser than these days' bin and tried to forget about it...;-).

However, blissful ignorance was not an option in this case: After taking his Beogram home, my customer sent me this dramatic picture a few days later:

The hood had spontaneously cracked off one of the hinges. A fracture occurred right at one of the two screws. At this point I thought the chafing was probably the root cause since it put a bit of stress on the hood, but I did not understand what caused the chafing. The metal parts looked perfectly o.k. on first glance.

I sent an email to Martin Olsen who designed these replica hoods and asked him if he knew if something like this had happened before. He answered that "I have an interesting Beogram hood on the bench now from a customer who couldn't make it fit properly. The hood would fit reasonably well one side. At the other side it would sit too high and too far forward, enough to show gaps. Opening the hood, I can see that one hinge buts up against the hinge block as it should, but the other has a gap of 2mm.

I took out the hinges, and they appear to be different, in that they have different angles."

The plot thickened! I removed the hinges from the troubled hood and also the hinges from another hood that I was working at that point on that did not have this issue. This allowed me to directly compare the hinges of the cracked hood with those of a 'normal' hood that did not chafe. This is what I found: Indeed the troubled hood had hinges that had a smaller angle between the two shanks than the normal one. This shows two of them in direct comparison:

It became clear that I needed to bend the bad hinges back into the normal shape. To do this I needed a way to precisely determine when the correct angle was restored. So I designed a 3D printed template that I iterated a few times until it perfectly fit into the normal hinges. The perfect fit was established by being able to put a bolt through the alignment hole that I designed into the block to line up with the hinge pivot point. It is evident that the smaller angle of the chafing hinge prevented the holes from lining up.

I took the bent hinges to the workbench and used a vise and adjustable pliers to open the hinge up a bit.

I carefully bent it by small amounts until I was able to put the bolt through the hinge into the template block:

I did this for the other hinge, too, and then put the hinge assembly back together. One side was lacking the plastic slider block, so I installed a 3D printed replica:

Then it was time to install another one of these awesome hoods as well as a new replica 4002 aluminum strip:

I used my alignment tools to place the strip exactly centered:

And then I bolted the hood to the hinge and glued the strip into place:

And I am happy to report that this hood did not chafe anymore! Beolovely!

Of course I am wondering what may have cause the hinges to deform in the first place. The only idea that came to mind so far is that the troubled hood was opened a bit too far and with a bit of violence. Considering the way the hoods are constructed, this would indeed reduce the angle between the hinge shanks if bending occurred. Treat your Beograms more gently, people! Pretty please?!?!...;-)