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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Beomaster 6000 4-Channel: Rebuilding the Motor Unit

Oh well, another setback!!... While messing with the output amplifier and doing the tuner dial string etc...I had to witness the degradation of the Buna N O-rings that I installed a month back into the Beomaster 6000's motor unit. I could literally see how cracks in the Buna N rings developed that increased in depth every day in a noticeable way. I think in another month the rings would have broken and fallen off by themselves. Here is a picture of the damage:

Pretty uncool! Anyway, this meant I needed to redo everything, and I already had the indicator bands installed.
I studied up on O-rings and the materials they are made from. It turns out that the best material for 'drive belt' uses under tension is EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer rubber). I found the "Parker O-ring Handbook", and guess what, it has a chapter on "Drive Belt Applications" (section 3.17). There it suggests material "E0751-65" as ideal for drive belt applications. A bit of internet sleuthing then yielded that this is EPDM...unfortunately it is very difficult to buy Parker products as a private person...it seems they have a distribution system that is loth of modern purchasing methods, i.e they want you to go to a local handyman location to pick up the O-ring...crazy! So I went to the O-ring store, and ordered six of their E70032 model, which is a 1-7/8 inner diameter 1/8" thick ring made from EPDM. I also went through a learning curve with regard to the inner diameter - the original rings measured 2" diameter, and I installed the E70033 model first, which has 2" diameter, only to learn that two of the potentiometer drives slipped with these due to a bit higher resistance in these pots...so I had to do it a 3rd time with the 32 size...live and learn!

Anyway, I was able to finally complete the repair, and I made another video about the process. This video shows the entire process: Removing the indicator bands, putting in the new rings, and putting the bands back in. There is also a demo of the rebuilt unit in action at the end. You can find it on YouTube:

********Please, note that the video does not make clear how to properly position the indicator bands relative to the potentiometers. See this post for details.**************************************

Another interesting issue about this repair procedure was the brittleness of the V-shaped plastic clips that hold the indicator bands to the purple drive pulleys on the potentiometers. The original clips immediately broke when I tried to squeeze them a bit when reinstalling the bands:

So I took measurements of one of the still intact ones, and made a model in Autodesk Inventor. Then I exported the finished model as an STL file and printed it on a Makerbot II in yellow PLA (I thought the yellow would work well with the purple drive wheels, adding to the colorful interior of the Beomaster 6000....;-).
Here are the new clips:

Pretty cool! But I had to manually Dremel the grates off at the side that connected to the plate of the printer to prevent damage to the indicator bands when sliding the clips in.

This worked very well. They can be installed by squeezing them together with needle nose pliers and pushing them in from the top while bunching the band ends together into the 'crack' (sounds more complicated than it is - watch the video posted above - it shows this process in detail).

In a second step, the clips are pushed into the wheels until they seat against the wall:

And that is pretty much it. I really like the yellow-on-purple theme...;-). Watch the video for a demonstration of the rebuilt unit and the clutch mechanism.

Friday, May 2, 2014

Beomaster 6000 4-Channel: Trimmer Replacement in Output Stages

Following excellent advice from Jacques ('charz') at Beoworld.com, I decided to also replace the quiescent current trimmers with modern 25-turn types. The challenge is to mount them in a way to achieve 'trimmability' with the output board installed in its operational position. Luckily the space between the two big 100n capacitors (C1/2 in the LF channel)is perfectly dimensioned to take standard encapsulated trimmer. The only thing left was to extend the leads to be able to bend them in the right orientation to be able to replace the old single turn trimmer. Here is a pic of a new trimmer in comparison with the old after this procedure:

It is important to orient the trimmer in a way that the quiescent current adjustment is in the same orientation as specified in the manual, i.e. current increases in clockwise direction. Otherwise, there might be confusion and hot heatsinks the next time this is done (in another 40 years??...;-). So I made sure that a complete counter clockwise adjustment means zero resistance between the left and center leads (in the orientation shown in the photo).

By the way: I used 500 Ohm trimmers since I was not able to get multi-turn precision 250 Ohm types through my usual channels in the US...I could only find single turn types...so I decided to use 500 Ohm. A look at the circuit diagram shows that there is nothing to worry about this. The only impact is that the base of 11IC3 (LF channel) can be pulled up a bit harder relative to the emitter if one would turn the pot all the way to the high current end due to the larger drop along the trimmer...but this is nothing one would do when following the quiescent current adjustment instructions in the manual (turn all the way CCW then turn on and slowly go CW until desired current is obtained). The 500 Ohm value does not affect the gain of 11TR2 either, since the collector resistor of 11TR2 is provided via 11R10 and 11R16, and the gain is theoretically close to infinite anyway due to the lack of an emitter resistor...Furthermore, the DC network for the base of 11IC3 is 'locked in place' (voltage wise) by the drop across 11IC3, which is defined by the quiescent current adjustment to the specified value, i.e. should be the same no matter if there is a 250 or 500 Ohm trimmer...

Next step was pulling the circuit board out again...certainly not a procedure I like to do. I hope this was the last time!
Here is a pic of the RR channel with new trimmer:

Pretty, how it fits! As if Jacob and his friends knew that I would want to do this in 2014!..;-)
And here a shot of the other three outputs:

And finally: The old 250 Ohm trimmers (which are all in pretty good condition..):

A test of the amplifier with the tuner revealed happy operation. This hopefully concludes the output amplifier restoration!