Beogram 4000: MMC Cartridge Mount Restoration

I recently received the tonearm of a Beogram 4000 located in Western Australia. Like in many Beogram 4000s the MMC cartridge mount had broken off.

This Beogram still had the 'old style' tonearm, that elegantly plugs into the base of the arm, instead of featuring soldered signal wiring. However, this makes it more difficult to replace the MMC mount since the insert that goes into the aluminum profile tube has an adapter at the rear that has spring loaded contacts that 'grab' the circuit board that reaches into the back end of the arm to make contact. This shows the sad condition of the MMC mount as received:

The first step of any MMC mount replacement is removal of the broken one. They are usually glued into the arms. Luckily, the glue softens when the arms are 'cooked' for 30 min or so. I heated this one together with the also broken one from a Beogram 4000 from the UK that I am restoring right now:

Replacement of the MMC mount is part of my standard Beogram 4000 restoration package since all mounts seem to be quite brittle at this point in time, and it is an unpleasant event if the broken off tab sticks deep in a cherished $800 rebuilt MMC20CL...This shows the liberated insert after the cooking process:

This is the 3D printed replacement part with installed flex-PCB based contact traces:

The back part with the plug-in contacts mounts onto the thin tab at the end of the part:

This shows the signal wires soldered to the new mount:

And this picture shows all the component put back together. I was able to re-use the bottom part of the mount with the grounding contact for the cartridge housing:

After checking all leads for continuity (sometimes these thin wires can be broken inside the insulation) the next step was inserting the assembly into the arm tube:

I put a bit of white wood glue on the sides of the insert when I push it in to make sure it stays put when cartridges are mounted/pulled off. The defunct cartridge makes sure that the front end components of the assembly are positioned correctly to receive cartridges without any gap between housing and arm tube:

And this shows the final result of the operation:

This tonearm is ready to travel back to Western Australia!

Beogram 4000: Replacement of Broken Off MMC Cartridge Mount with 3D Printed Replacement Assembly

I recently received the tonearm of a Beogram 4000 from Belgium. It had a broken off MMC cartridge mounting tab. Sadly, this happens to many Beogram 4000s since they used a plastic that seems to go brittle over the years. Luckily this Beogram 4000 has the old-style MMC adapter insert that connects via spring terminals to a narrow circuit board that sticks in to the arm from the back. This allows easy removal of the arm by just removing one screw and pulling it out. This shows the arm as received:

The plastic tab that inserts into the MMC cartridges is missing and only the flex PCB with the contact traces remained:

It turned out that the plastic insert was glued into this particular arm. This meant I had to simmer this arm for an hour in boiling water in order to soften the glue. After I removed the arm from the hot water I was able to push the assembly out from the back with a rod that fits snugly into the arm. This shows the extracted part:

Luckily, the lower part of the MMC mount with the grounding tab was still intact and could be reused:

The next step was to assemble the replacement part. The first step was to glue the new nickel and gold plated contact traces into the 3D printed plastic part replacement, and transfer the wires over:

Then I assembled the insert. I used a damaged cartridge for positioning the lower part with the grounding tab that it was flush with the installed cartridge. Then I glued the back part with the spring contact tabs onto the 3D printed part:

This shows the back contact tabs after assembly:

The next step was to insert this assembly into the arm in a way that the mounting screw would go straight into the back part while ensuring that the cartridge was snug with the aluminum tube. This was the result:

This is how the MMC mount looks like without cartridge:

Pretty close to the original! This arm is ready for duty again!

Beogram 4000: Replacement of an 'Old Style' MMC Cartridge Mount with a New 3D Printed Assembly

The Beogram 4000 that I am currently restoring also had a cracked MMC cartridge mount. Unfortunately, this is a problem common in many Beogram 4000 since the plastic B&O used for the cartridge mount seems to get brittle as it ages. Later Beogram 4002 and 4004 have cartridge mounts made from a different plastic, and it rarely happens that they break.

The first step was to remove the tone arm to be able to push the plastic assembly out of the arm from the back. Later 4000s have a mount that is glued in and one can remove it by 'cooking' the arm for a while in boiling water to soften the glue until one can push the mount out. More details about this procedure is posted in this blog post.

This post is about doing this replacement for an 'old style' arm, where the mount assembly is bolted into the aluminum profile of the arm. This shows the back end of the arms. The tone arm up front can be removed by taking out the screw that holds the aluminum profile to the arm base:

Then the arm can be pulled out:

Do this carefully, since there is a little spring on the excenter that allows adjusting the arm forward and backward (there is a small plate on it, that has already been removed in the above picture, but is shown in the 2nd picture below under the arm). 

Once the arm is off a small PCB is revealed that makes contact to the MMC mount assembly in the front end of the arm:

Turn the arm around, and the screw that holds the cartridge mount assembly in place can be accessed:

I removed the screw, and then carefully pushed the plastic assembly out from the back of the arm using a 8 mm diameter rod with a smooth end (to not damage the back end of the assembly) that fit into the aluminum profile. The extracted parts are shown in the upper part of the picture below:

The assembly consists of three components: (1) A 'carrier' that also has the tab (broken off) onto which the cartridge is stuck. The tab end of the carrier carries the flex circuit board that has the four traces for making contact to the coils of the cartridge (it came off due to the broken of tab). (2) A separate part that carries a grounding tab to make contact to the metal body of the cartridge, and (3) a part in the back that makes the connection to the PCB reaching into the back of the arm.

Below the extracted parts, the new plastic parts that I designed for this repair are shown. They were printed at Shapeways in black PA12 plastic, which is a sturdy engineering plastic that has a bit of flexibility while also being pretty stiff. Perfect for a cartridge mounting tab that is not supposed to break off when it is torqued a bit.

Since in this case also the grounding tab was damaged, 

I needed to design a replacement for this component, too.

The challenge was to find a suitable metal strip for fashioning a suitable grounding tab. After a bit of head scratching I had the idea to use an 'ammo pack' strip from Molex-style connector terminals:

I removed the terminals and plated the ammo strip with nickel and then with gold. Then I cut a small part off and bolted it into the 3D printed plastic part and bent the end into a suitable tab shape:

The next step was to glue a new flex PCB strip with the coil contacts (also Ni/Au plated) into the business end of the carrier part:

Then it was time to transfer the wiring:

After the soldering was done (use a small tip and be quick not to damage the plastic parts), the insert could be assembled together with the original back end part:

For assembling the ground tab part with the carrier, it is a good idea to stick a cartridge on it, which allows aligning the ground tab part with the back plate of the cartridge. I fixed the ground tab part in place with a dab of super glue gel on either side. The back end was glued on with contact cement (like in the original assembly).

And now came the interesting moment! Would this new assembly line up with screw hole in the arm tube when inserted into the tube?

Luckily it did:

While the cartridge sat snug on the end of the aluminum profile without a gap:

Perfect! This spared me another design iteration to make things match. It rarely happens that a part like this really fits on first attempt, but this time I was lucky! This shows the new cartridge mount with removed cartridge:

Beolovely! 

Time to put the arm back into its place:

A few more adjustments and it will be time to give this Beogram 4000 a first spin!

Beogram 4000: Restoring the Carriage Position and Solenoid Driven Switches

After rebuilding the keypad cluster of this Beogram 4000 it was time to see to the remaining mechanical switches that control the Beogram's performance. There are two clusters, one beneath the carriage where the switches determine the position of the tonearm, and the other next to the solenoid. The solenoid activated switches are responsible for the activating the tracking mechanism, opening the outputs when the needle is in the groove and to regulate the solenoid power down once the arm is lowered.

This shows the carriage position switches. For getting to them it is best to drive the carriage inwards and remove the red position indicator assembly. Then the board is fully accessible:

After unsoldering the two leads that power the carriage motor and removal of two screws the board can be pulled up and turned around:

Some oxidation is visible on the back of the terminal tabs. For some reason the carriage position switch terminals are usually less oxidized than the other switches under the keypad and next to the solenoid. I removed the terminals

and coated them with gold:

Then it was time to solder them back in and clean the plastic plungers that activate the switches from 40 year old hardened grease. Then I turned my attention to the switches next to the solenoid. The single switch assembly that controls the solenoid power can be directly accessed after removing the two screws that hold it in place:

I extracted the terminal and then removed the assembly that holds the output and tracking activation switches:

This assembly needs to be taken apart while not ripping the thin wires off that are connecting the switches to the control system:

Once this was done I extracted the three terminals. This shows all four terminals as extracted:

'Beautifully' oxidized, I'd say! I brushed the oxide off with 2000 grit paper and a fiber glass brush and then coated them with gold:

That looked much better! I put everything back together and gave the system a first test...Good news: so far everything seems to work...the carriage is now setting down the arm at the 12 inch point and the solenoid actuated properly. A significant milestone has been reached in this restoration!

Beogram 4000: Restoration of the Keypad Cluster

After replacing the electrolytic capacitors and restoring the AC motor of the Beogram 4000 that I am currently restoring, it was time to rebuild the keypad cluster. The PCBs below the keypad house the control center of the Beogram, which is a unique early digital control system based on TTL logic chips. This logic system comes to its operational conclusions largely based on inputs caused by the many mechanical switches throughout the turntable. The keypad contains 8 of them enabling user interaction with the Beogram.

The keypad is held in place by a single screw, which was missing in this Beogram:

An indication that 'human interaction' had taken place earlier (which was confirmed once I looked at the switches on the PCBs - see below). I took the pad out and opened it up:

The upper board contains some of the logic chips and the light bulbs that illuminate the position indicator and the RPM trimmers. The lower PCB is populated with the eight switches for the keypad and one more logic IC. As usual, the switch terminals were heavily corroded:

I removed the board from the keypad, which is necessary for extracting the switch terminals:

This shows the side of the board that houses the switch actuators. The small green, white and grey 'plungers' are actuated by the keys on the keypad, which pushes the switch terminals on the other side of the board making or breaking the associated contact. Note the location of the single grey plunger top left. This is the wrong location for this particular one. It needs to be in the center of the bottom row, since this particular switch is a break switch. This incorrect installation immediately explained the malfunction of the arm lowering circuit that I noticed after the restoration of the main PCB. The green plungers are longer, and therefore this switch, which is responsible for lowering the arm, was permanently open (actuated). This shows the three switch types in comparison:

The grey one is the shortest. It is used for break switches. The green one is used for make switches and the white one is for two-pole make/break switches (the << and >> keys, which have slow and fast functionality, depending on how hard the keys are pressed).

I removed the switch terminals:

After removal of the oxide layer with 2000 grit sand paper, I coated the terminals with a gold layer:

and then soldered them back into place:

The final step was to replace the light bulbs with LEDs. The position indicator scale lights were replaced with custom designed LED boards (available to other B&O enthusiasts), each containing two red-green LEDs tuned to yield an incandescent-like sheen. The RPM trimmer back light bulbs were replaced with standard red LEDs and current limiting resistors:

This shows the LEDs in action after installation:

After that it was time to put the keypad back together. Unfortunately, the center key was not attached to the keypad, i.e. I needed to reinsert it. This can be difficult and there is a danger to scratch the other keys while doing it. For this reason I used 3D printed tools that I developed earlier, which make this process much easier. They allow pre-bending of the spring that holds the pad in place and that allows it to bounce back after pressing it:

Once the spring is bent up, it is fairly easy to get the pad on it. Careful removal of the printed taps releases the spring holding the key in place. And this shows the pad installed:

A test revealed that all keys are now working properly. On to gold coating the remaining switches below the carriage and in the arm lowering mechanism.