Beomaster 8000 Type 1903 - Arizona Restoration Project - Replaced Microcomputer Board Testing

I decided to go with my already restored, early serial number Beomaster 8000 09 Microcomputer module in this Beomaster 8000 receiver.  I re-installed the original unit's metal shielding box on the replacement 09 PCB.

After working with this early serial number Microcomputer PCB, although the shielding box is a pain to work with, I should have removed it by focusing my de-soldering work on just the tabs that were soldering onto the shield box lids.

Reinstalling the box is much easier than removing it.

Here is a picture of the new Microcomputer PCB at the corner where the original board had broken traces.
Everything is good with this 09 module.

Here is the new Microcomputer board reinstalled in the Beomaster 8000 cabinet.

I went through all of the control panel functions both with the control panel buttons and the remote control buttons.

Everything worked as it should except that the FM station display has the two missing LEDs.

I can deal with the display LEDs later.

Right now I wanted to try out this Beomaster 8000 and see how it sounds.

Before doing that though, I needed to check the No-Load Current and DC Offset of the Beomaster 8000 Output Amplifier boards per the service manual.

Both the No-Load Current and DC Offset values needed adjusting.  

Here is the No-Load Current check after I adjusted the TR226 trimmer on both channels.

Note: These checks and adjustments are made with no speakers connected and the volume at zero.

No-Load Current

DC Offset

Those service manual adjustments encountered no problems so I moved on to some real listening tests.

I connected up an FM antenna and an iPod Nano to Tape 1.
I connected a pair of Beovox MC 120.2 speakers to Speaker 1 outputs of the Beomaster.

I will leave the Beomaster 8000 playing for several hours with the volume level at a low volume level (2.4).

Beomaster 8000 Type 1903 - Arizona Restoration Project - Microcomputer Board

Having determined the Microcomputer PCB (Module 09) has a problem in this Beomaster 8000 receiver, I removed it to examine it more closely.

I am not fond of these Microcomputer (uC) PCB modules from the early serial number Beomaster 8000 units.

B&O decided to solder the top and bottom (metal) lids of the uC assembly to the PCB. On later serial numbers, B&O changed the PCB shielding to be a metal frame around the PCB with snap-on lids.

To remove the metal lids on this uC PCB, the board connections have to be de-soldered.
It is safest here to use solder wick on the six mounting spots.

Here is the 09 PCB with the metal lids removed.

Right away I could see some breaks in the 09 PCB traces near connectors P75 and P76.

I verified the open trace connections with my DMM then set about repairing them.
Of course I hoped this would be the single source of the 09 Module problems and could move forward.

Here is the PCB 09 with the breaks in the traces bridged.  On the wider traces I decided to use some copper strips.  On the two thin traces I just used some signal wire.

Note that while I had the 09 PCB on the soldering station, I reflowed the solder joints on all of the 09 PCB connectors.

I tested the connections again with my DMM, then re-installed the 09 PCB in the Beomaster to try powering it on again.

This time I do get the Standby LED with this original 09 PCB.

The control panel buttons do not consistently operate the Beomaster 8000 though.
I double-checked source selection, volume control and FM tuning using a Beomaster 8000 remote control.

That worked so there is an issue with the control panel buttons connected to this original 09 PCB.

With the remote control though, I checked out some of the Beomaster 8000 functions.

I could select all of the sources but the FM tuning did not work.  The lack of FM tuning was a reason the owner sent me the Beomaster 8000 so at least the reason for that problem makes sense.

This picture shows the selection of FM presets P1 and P8.  You can see that the FM tuning indicator is not correct.  The tuning control couldn't do anything that made sense on the display either.

This photo shows source selections for phono and tape 1.  I also checked tape 2.  Those all select fine except that I had to do the selections from the remote control.

My next test was to uninstall this original 09 PCB and replace it with one of my Workshop Beomaster 8000 09 PCB modules again.  This time, however, I grabbed my Workshop 09 PCB from an early serial number Beomaster 8000.  That is a better match than the late serial number 09 PCB I tested with earlier.

Here is my Workshop 09 PCB next to the fault 09 PCB from this Beomaster unit.

They look identical except that my Workshop 09 PCB has a new 22uF capacitor and 1uF capacitor.
It also has new oscillators.

With my Workshop 09 PCB installed, the Beomaster 8000 source selections, volume adjustment, balance adjustment and FM tuning all work.  Both from the control panel and the remote control.

I can see that a separate issue with this Beomaster 8000 is on the display segments. 
The FM tuning display is missing one segment and the period for the frequency display.

What I have to do next is figure out what the solution will be for this Beomaster 8000 unit.

This project has budget and time constraints that limit my choices.

That leads me to wanting to just replace the original 09 PCB with my, already restored and working, Workshop 09 PCB.

The time it would take to troubleshoot and rework the broken 09 PCB could be expensive and at the end, it would still be a PCB that had repairs to some broken traces.  I could live with that if this were my own Beomaster 8000 but not when it is a unit that has to be shipped back to an owner.

Another option would be to assemble a new 09 PCB from scratch using a new PCB from Fredrick Adenholm.  He has reproduced the Beomaster 8000 Output Amplifier PCB, Display PCB and uC PCB.

I have all three of those blank, ready to populate boards.  The 09 PCB is pictured above.

However, in the case of this project, doing that to replace the 09 PCB is out of scope.

Beomaster 8000: Finishing up the capacitor replacement

This Beomaster is getting closer to a test run. I completed the capacitor replacement on all of the boards now. There were no real surprises there. I did find a higher than normal number of capacitors that were out of tolerance and quite a few on the border of being out of tolerance. In addition to the capacitor replacement I also replaced some opamp devices and I reflowed the solder joints on all of the board connectors.

Here are the FM and FM Interface boards.

Next, the preamplifier board.

I had seen quite a bit of dirt, grime and rust on this Beomaster in the previous blog posts so I was wary of possible corrosion on the circuit boards. You can see that the six input level trimmers have some sort of grime on the plastic housing.

Sure enough, several of these trimmer knobs would barely turn. I used two types of Deoxit spray on the trimmers. Each trimmer has three slots that expose the inner workings and I was able to flush the grime and get them working smoothly again.

Along with the capacitor replacement there are seven audio opamp devices that get replaced. Beolover just posted a nice description of why we replace these particular opamps. Here is the preamplifier board with the capacitors removed and new eight pin sockets ready for new LF353N opamps.

...and here is the completed preamplifier board.

The Filter & Tone Controls board also has some audio opamps in the signal path that get replaced. There are also a few capacitors to replace. The tone control sliders and switches also received Deoxit treatment so they operate smoothly and have clean contacts.

As I did on the preamplifier board I added sockets for the new opamps. The sockets are nice because it makes it safer to install the new opamps (no solder heat gets applied to the actual device). Having the socket also makes it easy to switch out a different opamp in the future should that become necessary.

The display and microcomputer boards have only two capacitors each (that get replaced). The display board will be revisited later to change out the display segment LEDs and to replace the four indicator lamps.

Here are the two replacement capacitors on the display board.

This is also just a first visit to the microcomputer board. I will come back to it and replace the two oscillators later.

The 22uF (9C85) capacitor on the left has been replaced before. The original capacitor leads were cut and the replacement capacitor soldered to the remaining leads (still soldered to the board). That isn't necessarily bad but I prefer removing the capacitor and properly soldering in a new one. 

An important thing on this microcomputer board is that some of the component leads must be soldered to both sides of the board. The negative lead of 9C85 is one of those type of components.

The capacitor replacements on this Beomaster 8000 are now all done. I can reinstall the preamplifier, FM, FM Interface, Filter & Tone Controls boards in the Beomaster chassis now and start connecting their cables.

Beomaster 8000: Wire Bridges on Microcomputer Board (#9) and Broken Phono Jack

Before I put the Beomaster 8000 back together for a test-drive in the living room together with his play-pals, the Beocord 9000 and the Beogram 8000, I cleaned and de-oxidized all the contacts on the microcomputer board (PCB #9), and had a look at the inner sanctum, the EMI shielded processor cans. Usually one needs to re-solder the few vias that are on this board, since they tend to be poorly soldered...clearly in the 80's the PCB technology was not that advanced, yet. Anyway, what I found in this particular Beomaster was remarkable. Someone already had put in the B&O recommended wire bridges (and then some...), and they were directly soldered to the processor pins. Unbelievable! Here is a pic:

While the soldering appears to have been carried out with some capability, I would never do it this way...the only parts of the Beomaster 8000 that are truly non-replaceable are the microcontrollers that contain proprietary coding, i.e. one would have to extract the code from a working one, if one would want to attempt replacing it with a NOS chip...

Anyway, clearly, this needs to be left as is. I could not risk to expose those rarefied microcontroller pins to another heat-cool cycle. In a way, since the chips survived this assault, this solution is probably the most reliable...several fewer spring based contacts in between the controllers and their slaves...so I decided to just replace the two electrolytic capacitors on this board and move on.

Here is a pic after putting in the caps:

The last thing that needs to get fixed in this Beomaster is a broken phono jack in the 'socket panel' that lost its tabs that prevent it from popping into the panel when trying to plug in the Beogram:

I am working on a creative solution, since not even Dillen of Beoworld.org has this part available.  He said it is rare, since it often breaks...Another day, another 3D print...;-)

Beomaster 8000 Microcomputer PCB Damage

Back to the Beomaster 8000. Today I looked at the missing display segments. First, I thought it is the usual dead LEDs on the boards. The display looked like this:

So I removed the three main displays. Luckily, I decided to plug them into the display 'harness' I made with a breadboard for the last display repairs. Powering them up yielded this:

This is the first Beomaster 8000 display I see that fully works. This told me the problem is elsewhere. I soldered the displays back in and looked at the circuit diagram. The particular LED segments that were out suggested a problem in the drain path to the SN74247 7-segment driver responsible for these segments (IC 2). I checked the signals on plug P-75 and indeed the pins responsible for the c and d segments were at 5V and did not show any strobe signal. This suggested a contact problem. I removed the display board and cleaned the plugs and resoldered the p-75 plug and socket. To no avail. The segments remained dead.

I followed the current path towards the SN74247 and found that the plug pins did not connect to the respective current limiting resistors R21 and R22. This meant that the PCB traces between P-75 and these resistors were broken somewhere. 

A closer look revealed that there had been the same problem at some point in the past with pin 3 as indicated by the white jumper soldered between capacitor and resistor:

I did the same for pins 7 and 8:

This brought the segments back:

The question now is whether to refurbish the displays anyway or leave them as they are.