The Beogram 4002 (5513) that I am restoring right now came with a pretty badly worn keypad. Unfortunately, the keypads are a weakness of this design since their surface does not respond well to the presence of fatty acids deposited from the user's fingers over time.
Sadly, after a long illness my friend in Denmark, who in the past restored these keypads for me, passed away recently. May he rest in peace in B&O heaven.
Over his last few months he taught me how he does it. I started practicing to fix them a couple months ago, and finally I achieved one good outcome. It is a pretty difficult process, and I would say I am not quite reproducible yet with it, but it worked once so far:
Sadly, after a long illness my friend in Denmark, who in the past restored these keypads for me, passed away recently. May he rest in peace in B&O heaven.
Over his last few months he taught me how he does it. I started practicing to fix them a couple months ago, and finally I achieved one good outcome. It is a pretty difficult process, and I would say I am not quite reproducible yet with it, but it worked once so far:
This picture shows the original keypad of the Beogram on the left. It has severe usage marks on the most commonly used keys. On the right is the one that I was able to restore. It looks quite original, I think. Now let's see if I can do it a second time...
While I had the keypad out, I also exchanged the incandescent bulbs in the RPM scales with my LED replacement boards. This shows the original bulbs:
And replaced with my SMD LED boards:
These assemblies are available to other enthusiasts. Just send me an email. This video shows how to install them.
On to repairing the cracked plinth!
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