Beogram 4004 Type 5526: Second Beogram 4004 from Texas almost ready for record play

In this update I have the second Beogram 4004 from Texas reassembled and nearing the point of playing records again.

I completed the last few component restoration tasks.

First there was the RPM indicator panel update to the Beolover RPM indicator modules. Those are custom plug 'n play LED lamps for the RPM panel. Platter motor stability tests with the LED RPM lamps show improved motor speed stability so when we restore a Beogram 400x with a rebuilt platter motor we always replace the RPM indicator lamps and the RPM relay on the controller board.

Here are the Beolover RPM indicator modules installed.

The keypad button contacts usually have oxidation that needs cleaning up.

The contacts on this one aren't too bad but while I have the keypad opened up I cleaned it with a fiberglass brush and Deoxit.

Now the components can be reassembled in the Beogram cabinet.

For the floating chassis I installed the Beolover 3D printed transport lock bushings.

With the bushings in place I prepared the transport lockdown screw assemblies. I will just show one as the other two are the same.

The upper and lower locking nuts were installed at the very ends of the threads to give maximum distance between them when the floating chassis is unlocked.

Next was the installation of the new reservoir capacitor. The new capacitor uses a Beolover 3D printed housing so it fits perfect in the cabinet.

Looks great.

Now for the reinstallation of the DC platter motor that Beolover restored for me at the beginning of December.

Now for the installation of the controller board, output board, keypad and RPM indicator panel.

This Beogram is ready to try a power on test.

Lights are on, the motors turn...those are good signs.

The next step is to measure the voltages and key sensor signals before starting the service manual checks.

Beomaster 8000: Replacing the ±55V Reservoir Capacitors

The two most time consuming tasks on the Beomaster 8000 restoration are the changing out of the four, large reservoir capacitors and the recapping of the output amplifier boards. Both of those tasks require some cabinet disassembly to get to components.

Here are the four ±55V reservoir capacitor replacements on this Beomaster 8000 project.

The space to de-solder wires and install the new capacitors is tight plus the two reservoir capacitors against the back wall of the cabinet are secured by round, metal clips. To loosen the mounting clips on the rear capacitors more working space is needed. That requires loosening the rear panel screws so it can be moved enough to get some needle-nose pliers on the clips.

I removed the left channel capacitors first...

With the left channel reservoir capacitors removed you can see the metal mounting clip for the rear capacitor.

Now for the right channel...

Both sets are removed.

Here are the Beolover replacement capacitors. Modern 10,000uF replacement capacitors are quite a bit smaller in physical size. The Beolover replacement includes a 3D printed adapter so the replacement capacitors fit in the same space as the originals.

Note: Any DIY enthusiasts that are up for this challenge themselves can purchase these Beolover replacement reservoir capacitor kits through the contact form on the right.

And here are the left and right channel reservoir capacitors secured and connected up.

The right channel side of the reservoir replacement had more wires that needed to be moved out of the way during the recap. That included the gray cable for the smaller transformer. With the reservoir recap completed I routed the wires back through to the small transformer but left them disconnected for now as I will soon be recapping the power supply and output amplifier boards.

Beomaster 4400: Replacing the Main Reservoir Capacitors

Today was output capacitor day in my Beomaster 4400 restoration process. I always enjoy replacing the 'big cans'. It certainly has something satisfying to it. Also, it turned out that this Beomaster definitely needed new ones. It is a fairly painless operation in these units, since the capacitors are only held in place with one clamp, and the grounding wires are well organized on the center bridge of the capacitor assembly. The clamp is even adjustable, i.e. new smaller diameter capacitors can be fitted without the need for adapters. Here is a picture of the original setup:

Here is a shot of the empty bay after removal of the old caps:

This shows the new ones loosely fitted:

After fixing them in place with the clamp it was time to solder them in. I usually use 'helping hands' to hold the wires in place. It is important to insulate the wires from the alligator clamp with some cardboard to avoid them melting through the insulation while the leads get hot during soldering:

And don't forget to put the cable tie back in!..;-). Done:

As usual I measured the old caps, and this ones, while looking o.k. definitely showed signs of their endgame. Their capacitance was out of spec (should be 10,000uF). The 4400 still worked with them, but would have probably shown signs of distortion if played loudly:

On to replacing the remaining electrolytic capacitors in this vintage beauty!