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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Showing posts with label 1917JKBG6000. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1917JKBG6000. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 23, 2022

Beogram 6000 (5505): Installation of AC-Motor Version of Beolover Commander Remote Control

This post discusses the installation of the AC-motor version of the Beolover Commander Remote Control into a Beogram 6000 (Type 5505) that I just restored. These are the links to the initial three posts that discuss the initial condition of the unit, its functional restoration, and the restoration and exploration of the CD-4 channel pre-amplifier.

This Beogram 6000 has an original keypad that is in almost pristine condition:

An ideal case for installing the Beolover Commander! I developed it mainly as a way to protect the Beogram keypads. They tend to loose their coating if they are used with direct finger contact. So the best way to protect them is to not use them! The Commander allows full control of the Beogram without ever touching the keypad again. It even adds some more functionality: It has a programmable auto-repeat function and adds the 'spin the platter for record cleaning' that is a standard feature in later DC motor Beograms, but is absent in the AC motor versions.

This shows the the Commander system for the AC motor Beogram 4002 versions:

The Commander remote module is controlled via a paired Apple remote. The pairing function can be cancelled if so desired, or necessary for integration of the Commander into a larger remote controlled system. 

This is a summary of the Commander functions:

The main difference between the DC and AC motor versions of the Commander is that there is no keypad connector in the AC Beogram versions since their boards are mostly wired directly together. This means a connector needs to be installed on the keypad PCB before the Commander can be plugged in.

So the first step is the installation of this adapter. It is shown here:
The first step is to remove the keypad, flip it over, and then slide the PCB out. This is how the keypad looks flipped around: 

Unfortunately, the above picture shows the PCB already slid out partially. In its 'fully in' position, the alignment tab catches the machined groove in the aluminum profile to hold the PCB firmly in the proper position:
This tab is spring loaded, i.e. you can simply pull it up with your fingernails, and then slide the PCB out:

Before moving on with the process, it is a good idea to put the keypad into a secure location to make sure it does not get scratched accidentally.

For the installation of the adapter the PCB needs to be flipped over

On the left side of the PCB there are the wire terminals. This shows them magnified:
This is where the adapter needs to be installed. The first step is to create a 'corridor' free of solder through the center of all the wire tabs as shown here:
There are some wires that connect at the back end of these terminals as shown here:
Usually, there is no other way than to remove the solder from these wires when creating the flat area for soldering the adapter in place. After installation of the adapter these wires will need to be soldered in place again.
This shows the adapter soldered onto the terminals. It needs to be vertical relative to the PCB and the end of the white socket needs to be about flush with the boundary of the PCB. Like so:


I usually tack the adapter to the PCB on two of the terminals and make sure it is well aligned. Then I solder the remaining pads together. It is difficult to remove the adapter once it is fully soldered in. So better make sure it is in the right place before putting all that solder down.

The next step is the installation of the Commander board. This shows it from the bottom:
The part that connects to the main PCB is the narrow tab on the right side. The raised edge on the far right end aligns the board with the edge of the main PCB. The bolt hole on the left side is used to bolt it onto the main board using the threaded hole that is used for the right PCB screw of the main board. It is located between the two blue trimmers I installed for adjusting 33 and 45 RPM.
This shows the Commander board in place. The original PCB screw needs to be replaced with the included M3x14mm screw due to the added thickness of the Commander board.:
It is important that the black remote receiver is fed in between the the plinth and the enclosure next to the front alignment feature of the plinth.
Once the board is bolted in, the keypad can be connected with the included white jumper:
This shows the connection to the Commander board in more detail 
and this the connection to the adapter board
It is important to note that the installation of the white jumper needs to be done carefully, since it is easy to bend the filigrane contact pins inside the sockets. In other words, the connectors need to be aligned properly before they get pushed in. This shows everything from the top:
Now the keypad PCB can be slid back into the keypad profile:

The final step of the installation is mounting the auto-repeat indicator PCB under the screw that holds the keypad in place. Since this is a Beogram 6000 which uses the CD-4 indicator integrated in the RPM panel, I had to modify the little PCB by cutting out a corner with sheet metal shears. This opened a path for the light emitted from the CD-4 indicator LED under the keypad.

After this I put everything back together and tested the Commander system. I selected one of my favorite Bob James albums, 'Lucky Seven' from 1979 (Tappan Zee Records, Columbia, JC36056). Of course this album was thoroughly cleaned with a CleanerVinyl ProXL setup using a multi-frequency ultrasonic cleaner before listening! This shows the Beogram 6000 in action together with the nice cover of this album: 
Beolovely! Soon it will be time to return this Beogram 6000 to its owner in the UK.


Thursday, November 17, 2022

Beogram 6000 (5505): Full Functional Restoration Pt.2: Exploration and Restoration of CD-4 Pre-Amplifier

This post is the second installment of my report of the restoration of a Beogram 6000 Type 5505 with AC platter motor. The first part can be found here

What distinguishes a Beogram 6000 from a Beogram 4002 is that it has a CD-4 capable quadraphonic pre-amplifier board factory installed. In many Beogram 4002 such a board could be installed at a later point. CD-4 is mostly interesting from a historical point of view, since this 4-channel format never really took off, and there are not many CD-4 vinyls in circulation.

However, the 6000 has an on-off switch for the CD-4 detection feature, and in off position this pre-amplifier becomes a standard RIAA pre-amp for stereophonic records. This allows connecting a 6000 directly to any standard high-level line input. Many modern receivers do not have a dedicated Phono input anymore, and so getting a 6000 is an interesting option if a classic and/or internal pre-amp design is preferred.

This shows the CD-4 board installed after removing the keypad:

Now that is a pretty 'complex' board! It even has a little board piggy-backed on the part that is located above the keypad. Nowadays a circuit with such functionality would be a single chip with a few external passive components and a power supply. 

Let's have a brief look at the circuit diagram first, the discussion of the restoration follows below. I made an annotated version while trying to understand 'what is what', and which parts are important for the use as RIAA stereo pre-amp.

Here we go: click on the pic and you should be able to see the high-res version and be able to read my comments. Be aware that the comments reflect my 'current state of knowledge' about this board, and should therefore be taken with a grain of salt.

The purple marked/annotated parts are the essential components of the CD-4 detection and demodulation system. The green path is the RIAA stereo signal path through this board. An introduction to CD-4 published in 1973 by JVC can be found here.

In a nutshell, the CD-4 format uses a bandwidth of ~20 to 40kHz to carry two stereo signals, front and rear, which each need ~15kHz bandwidth for high fidelity. It is obvious that a faithful reproduction of frequencies as high as 40kHz requires a high-quality cartridge with a low mass cantilever. The MMC6000 cartridge was dedicated to this format. It has a beryllium cantilever. I think a later MMC20CL with sapphire cantilever could probably also be used. But not sure.

Since we only have one groove, but two sets of signals the signals are encoded as 'sum signal' Front+Rear (F+R) in the audible part of the bandwidth and 'difference signal' Front-Rear (F-R) in the >20kHz range. The F+R signal is pre-emphasized in accordance with the RIAA curve and essentially 'put into the groove' like a conventional stereo signal. For this reason CD-4 records are compatible with standard stereo players. One just does cannot distinguish the rear channels.
The F-R signal, in contrast, is not pre-emphasized, and it is superimposed to the F+R signal as a frequency-modulated signal around a 30kHz carrier tone. Sort of like a FM radio signal, just with a carrier that is much closer to the modulated audio signal. Due to the high-frequency bandwidth of the F-R signal it is much more affected by noise from the vinyl surface and preamp etc...This made it necessary to use noise-suppression for this signal. This is done with a system that works similar to Dolby used on tape decks. JVC called their system ANRS. The principle is similar to the Dolby systems: the volume range is compressed for recording, and then decompressed during play. This reduces the noise level for low-volume sections.

Let's see what happens with the signal from the cartridge in the circuit:

The diagram shows only the left channel, as well as the circuitry that is used by both channels. The signal from the cartridge enters the circuit via the coupling capacitor 6C2 into the opamp 6IC1. There it receives a 40-50dBV boost and is also RIAA de-emphasized in the low frequency range via the filter 6C1 and 6R5 in the feedback circuit. This does not affect the high-frequency F-R part of the signal, therefore it can be done for the entire signal right in the opamp. 

After the opamp, however, the signal gets split up into F+R and F-R.

1) F-R:
After the opamp the signal goes through a band-pass filter to get rid of F+R and then enters a demodulation circuit (annotated purple) that works similar to a FM radio receiver followed by the ANRS noise reduction decompressor. At the end of the process the F-R signal is reconstituted in the audible spectrum ("B" in the diagram) and enters the "matrix" where it is combined with the F+R signal and then F and R are spit out separately. The matrix does this by adding the F-R signal to F+R and also  the inverted (180 deg phase shifted) F-R = -F+R signal to F+R. So we get F+R+F-R = 2F and F+R-F+R = 2R. All of this of course in stereo. So at the end we have the front channels FR and FL, and the rear channels RR and RL.

2) F+R:

After the opamp, the signal is also sent through a low pass 6R7/6C4 which does the second half of the RIAA deemphasizing. This path is marked green. The signal then goes through the decoupling capacitors 6C31 and 6C32. In between the two capacitors the signal is diverted into a filter formed by 6L4/6C33/6R47 which essentially removes any trace of the F-R signal, and then feeds the F+R signal into the matrix for reconstitution of separate F and R channels.

What happens with a conventional stereo signal?

If there is only a stereo signal from a conventional record, the signal is routed further along the green path, which basically sends the signal unmodified to the output socket. Of course it also goes through the filter and the F+R section, but in the case of regular stereo the matrix signal is stopped via the diode switch es from reaching the output socket - see below.

How does the circuit make sure that a regular stereo signal does not get messed with in the matrix circuit?

This is basically done by the 'diode switch' comprised of the diodes around the matrix. Depending on how these diodes are biased the signal either travels the green path or the decoded CD-4 signal gets routed to the output socket.
The diode switch is controlled by the "frequency-to-DC-converter" (blue frame on the left) and the Schmitt trigger circuit (red frame next to it). Basically, the frequency-to-DC-converter produces a DC output voltage at the emitter of 6TR1 that is low (0V) if there is no CD-4 carrier tone, and high (3.8V) if there is one. This signal then gets fed into the Schmitt trigger which has two outputs A and B. If CD-4 is detected A is high and B is low, while if there is a regular stereo record we get the reverse output.

Both A and B low mutes the entire output. This is done via the muting circuit, which essentially overrides the Schmitt trigger by pulling both outputs A and B low via 6D17 and 6D18 when the arm is up.

The great thing (for using it as a regular RIAA pre-amp) about this circuit is that, with the CD-4 switch on the right side of the Beogram enclosure (added in red to the frequency-to-DC-converter circuit), one can pull the base of 6TR11 permanently to GND. This configures the Schmitt trigger permanently to its no CD-4 setting, B=high and A=low, and then all records are played like stereo records. In other words the signal follows the green route. While this should happen automatically, I think B&O added the switch to make sure one can set the patch to regular stereo incase there is a 'misunderstanding' in the detection circuit. After all we are talking about a 'complex analog audio system'...;-).

Restoration of the board:

This shows the board after extraction:
And here the upper section after removing the piggy-backed smaller board:
I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on the board. The ones in the 'stereo signal path' were replaced with fitting WIMA foil capacitors to reduce distortions: 
Pretty! They know exactly why they package them in these pretty red little boxes!...;-)
I also replaced the CD 4 indicator lamp with a LED. If you use a high output LED that only needs a small current to light up, then you may want to add a ~3k resistor between the base of 6TR14 and GND to pull the base down sufficiently to turn the lamp off when there is no CD-4 signal/the switch is turned to OFF. I did that with a SMD resistor on the solder side of the board at a convenient location that could be bridged by the resistor. The blue resistor seen in the picture is the current limiting resistor for the LED to make it compatible with the 22.8V rail:
This shows the restored board
and the removed parts.
Quite a few electrolytic capacitors in this historic analog design! While in there I also added a switch in the back allowing connecting the output cable shield to the signal ground in case there is a hum issue:
This is where the other end of the switch connects at the output plug. I added it to the pin where the inner braid is connected:
This shows the board installed again:
After this I put the keypad back in place and did some listening. Unfortunately, I was able to hear some motor noise in the speakers when cranking up the volume with the arm down next to the platter.
Not too unexpected in a design like this since motors introduce a lot of noise on power rails, while the RIAA amp is very sensitive to small signals.

This was confirmed by a measurement with my Quant Asylum QA400 audio analyzer. The red trace shows the noise spectrum with the arm down after I put the Beogram back on the bench (note that this spectrum is shifted 20dBV higher to separate it from the blue spectrum that was measured after my fix was implemented). Most of these peaks, except the one at 60Hz come from the motor.
I hooked up the oscilloscope to the 30V rail (orange wires on 3300uF capacitors) and saw this (using AC coupling):
~500mV noise!

So I did two things:
First I converted the power supply of the CD-4 board from 'main PCB 22.8V rail referenced' to a 24V Zener reference. This is easy to do on this board. This shows the original power supply section of the board. The big capacitor is 6C94:
I removed this capacitor and implemented a 24V Zener diode in its place. In combination with 6R96 and 6R98 this created the classic Zener voltage divider to be fed into the base of an emitter-follower like 6TR17. One more thing had to be done to 'disconnect' the blue wire that is the 'reference' to the 22.8V rail of the main board. I did this by removing 6D20 while leaving the blue wire in place. This shows the section in its final configuration:
The second step I took was to implement a 'capacitance multiplier' in front of the two 3300uV reservoir capacitors:
Basically, at the positive terminals of the capacitors the orange wire from the emitter of 0TR1 feeds the regulated voltage to the capacitor. In the original configuration, a second orange wire then connects to the rest of the circuit. In my modification the orange wire now connects to the output of the capacitance multiplier and the input to the capacitors.
This is how the voltage looked after the added circuit:

Much nicer! And when I measured the noise spectrum, I got the blue trace in the above graph. You see that most peaks are gone. Only the usual 60Hz interference and a couple smaller peaks are left. 

How does a 'capacitance multiplier' work? Essentially it is a bit of a misnomer, since it is rather an emitter follower that is referenced to a very low pass filtered (2k/100uF) low-current version of the original to be cleaned up voltage rail. Since the emitter follows the signal at the filter output, it removes all the high frequency stuff on the power rail. There is a great Dave video on the EEVblog that explains all the ways to remove ripple and noise. I built it with a TIP102 Darlington to get a big gain, which allows to reduce the cutoff frequency even more since the current in the filter output can be very small while still being able to drive a large current to the load. This shows a simulation of my little circuit in iCircuit:
I assumed a 40V DC signal with a 1Vpp ripple on it (green) and a 1000x gain for the transistor, similar to a Darlington. The circuit cleaned this up to the yellow trace which has a 13mV ripple. So basically a two magnitudes improvement.

I listened to the deck again, and only a healthy RIAA pre-amp hiss came from the speakers when cranking up the amplifier with the arm down next to the platter! Beolovely!

My final act was to try measuring the total harmonic distortion (THD) and THD+noise (THD+N) of this RIAA amplifier using the QA400, which can calculate it from the FFT spectrum. THD numbers are always a bit ambiguous when reading manufacturer specifications since it is never stated under what conditions they were measured. So it may be difficult to directly compare my measurements with others. Therefore, I post the spectra that I measured along with the calculated numbers. 
The QA400 outputs were connected with a BNC-to-minigrabber cable directly to the Left and Right Channel pins at the input plug of the CD-4 board. Then the deck was turned on at 33 RPM and the arm lowered to open up the signal path through the diode switch. The CD-4 switch was set to OFF. 
I did two measurements for two input levels, -60dBV and -70dBV. These levels correspond to 14mVmax/10mVrms and 4.4mVmax/3.16mVrms respectively signals. I measured a few MMC cartridges a while back and they produced such levels during fairly loud passages.
The first graph shows the -60dBV curve. Right and left looked fairly similar, so I am only showing the right one for clarity. The signal strength of the amplified 1kHz tone is about -17dBV, i.e. we have an amplification at 1kHz of about 43 dBV. This gain resulted by setting the two gain trimmers in the opamp feedback to center position. For this spectrum the QA400 calculated THD=0.46% and THD+N=0.52%.


The second graph shows the same measurement at the lower -70dBV input level. It is obvious that the harmonics went down, and consequently the THD numbers are lower with THD=0.14. THD+N=0.8 is higher since the signal to noise ratio is now 10dB worse.
These THD values are considerably higher than what is stated for modern external RIAA pre-amps, which usually seem to be in the 0.0X% range at similar gains.
In my opinion this does not matter much since cartridges and the records themselves usually have much higher distortion levels, i.e. the small amounts added by this classic RIAA design will not matter much. I really like listening to this Beogram 6000. It sounds very nicely and gives you that awesome 1970s warmth that makes you think of bellbottoms and brown corduroy suits with wide lapels!...;-)


Monday, October 24, 2022

Beogram 6000 (5505): Full Functional Restoration Pt.1

I am making good progress with the Beogram 6000 (Type 5505) from the UK. The initial assessment of this unit is posted here. This post discusses the restoration of the deck except the work on the CD-4 pre-amplifier, which will be the subject of a separate subsequent post.

This shows the Beogram as received with the panels and the platter removed:

As usual I started working on restoring the carriage. This shows the arm lowering mechanism comprised of yellow solenoid and bronze damper:
I removed all moving parts from the arm lowering section, the rods that guide the carriage, and the spindle that drives the carriage. Another part that needed to be extracted for cleaning and lubrication was the linkage that goes from damper to tonearm back. This requires the removal of the sensor arm. This shows the arm assembly taken out and the linkage removed:
Up front you can see the small copper pad that is glued to the sensor arm assembly to reduce friction between arm upper limit screw and the base of the arm. It always comes off if one tugs only slightly on it due to the degradation of the double sided tape that attaches it to the base of the arm. I usually glue it back into place with epoxy.
An inspection of the arm lowering components revealed an often found issue in this vintage Beogram 4002: A cracked solenoid arm lever extension:
This is a 'dangerous' issue, since the plastic extension has the task of activating the solenoid switch that reduces the current through the solenoid once it has lowered the arm. If it completely breaks off, the solenoid can overheat and the wire insulation of the windings burn off - usually the end of the solenoid, and it has to be rewound or replaced. I drilled out the rivets and removed the cracked plastic part. Then it was time to clean all the components in an ultrasonic bath. This shows the shiny parts after the clean:
I installed a 3D printed replacement extension on the solenoid lever
and put everything back together. Two things left to address on the carriage: The first one was to replace the original light bulb in the tracking sensor, which is situated in the black housing seen here:
I removed the bulb housing, which revealed the sensor aperture that is used to measure the arm deviation as it is pulled inward by the playing record:
After making sure that the aperture does not chafe with the sensor base, I installed the Beolover LED assembly. It has an integrated trimmer (blue) that allows adjusting the intensity of the LED light. This is very useful for fine-tuning the tracking feedback:
The final carriage task was to replace the cracked plastic pulley with a nice machined aluminum reproduction:
Now it was time to restore the AC platter motor and the motor and reservoir capacitor section. This shows the original setup:
I removed all components and cleaned the compartment:

Then I was time to take the AC motor apart for an oil infusion of the bearings. This shows the motor as extracted:
And here opened up - the simple design of this brushless synchronous motor delights me every time:
I immersed the enclosure in oil and pulled a vacuum:
While the infusion was going on I had a look at the power LED wiring and found this small circuit inside a plastic tube around the wire:
It consists of a resistor and a rectifying diode, which allows to hook up the added power LED directly to the AC secondary of the transformer.
After the oil infusion I put the motor back together using 3D printed brackets to replace the rivets that I had to drill out for opening it up. then I installed it together with a 3D printed assembly that holds the new capacitors in place:
Then I lifted the main PCB up for restoration:
This reveals the two power transistors of the push-pull driver of the AC platter motor. They are bolted to the bottom of the metal enclosure for heat dissipation. Someone already had replaced the original TIP 31/32 transistors with modern TIP41/42, so I left them in place:
While the board is up it is a good moment to replace the solenoid transistor, which was still the original TIP41A:
I replaced it with a new higher voltage type, a TIP41C:
It is rated to 100V, which hopefully will help it coping better with the EMF voltages generated when releasing the solenoid. At that point I also replaced the solenoid resistor (white 'box' in back) and the electrolytic capacitor on the board (orange):
This shows the modern components implanted:
On the main PCB I replaced the electrolytic capacitors, the RPM trimmers, the sensor arm amplifier, the H-bridge transistors and the driver for the push-pull stage of the AC motor. This shows the board after replacing the parts:
After this it was time to adjust the sensor arm amplifier bias with the 25 turn trimmer that I installed to get 4V at the collector of this transistor:
Once adjusted the trimmer has to be installed on the component side to not interfere with the closely spaced platter:
At this point I focused on replacing the remaining three incandescent bulbs in the deck. This shows the RPM panel removed with bulb compartments opened up:
I usually replace the bulbs with Beolover LED assemblies that solder directly to the bulb solder terminals:
This shows them installed in-lieu of the bulbs:
I tested the LED assemblies to verify that the white background reflectors under the RPM scales do not need replacement:
At least at the 33 RPM trimmer these backgrounds are often wavy due to the fairly high heat dissipation from the original bulbs, which softens and degrades the plastic strips that form the backgrounds. In the case of this Beogram 6000, the backgrounds were in perfect condition, a further indication that this deck was only used lightly, if at all.
The final bulb to replace was in the sensor compartment at the end of the sensor arm. This shows the original setup after pulling the compartment out:
The LED replacement assembly is shown next to the bulb compartment. This picture shows it installed:
And in action:
After replacing the sensor arm light source it is always a good idea to verify that a good sensor signal is achieved when there is no record on the platter. I hooked up the oscilloscope to the collector of the sensor transistor and spun the platter by hand. This is the strong signal I was able to measure:
More than enough amplitude! While the oscilloscope was fired up, I also measured and adjusted the motor voltage. This shows the sine wave that I measured for 45 RPM:
Then it was time to do a 24 hrs RPM stability measurement with the BeoloverRPM device:
The BeoloverRPM is able to log the RPM for long periods of time. This is the curve that I measured over 24hrs:
As usual, these curves are pretty uneventful for AC motor Beograms. The AC motors run very consistently due to their brushless synchronous motor design, and the high stability of the Wien oscillator that drives them. This platter drive was ready for prime time!

The final steps before giving this deck a tryout were calibrating the tracking weight, and doing all the adjustments to parallelize the arms, platter and floating sub-chassis. The picture below shows my approach to secure the tracking weigh in place: I replace the flimsy circlip that holds the counterweight adjustment screw in place with a M3 nut:
This makes sure that the calibration remains consistent, even during transport. Then I calibrated the scale on the small weight adjustment wheel to be acceptably accurate around 1.2g, the weight that most B&O cartridges prefer:
Next was the adjustment of the arm limits. This shows the lowering limit, which needs to be adjusted that the needle misses the platter ribs at the setdown positions:
This is a safety precaution in case the arm lowering circuit would ever malfunction and lower the needle on a rotating platter without record present.
Then I adjusted the tracking sensor feedback:
At this point the functional restoration was pretty much complete, except for the CD-4 output board. I thought it would be a good idea to try and see if the CD-4 pre-amp was working at all. So I put the first record Stanley Clarke (bassist of Return to Forever) headed himself in 1974 ("Stanley Clarke", Nemperor Records NE431) on the platter and pressed START:
And, amazingly, the record sounded pretty good through the unrestored CD-4 pre-amp. A happy starting point for working on the CD-4 circuit, for sure! The restoration and exploration of the CD-4 board will be the subject of an upcoming post. Stay tuned!