Beogram 4000: Installation of a New Reed Relay

This is the third installment of my 'this Beogram keeps on giving' series about the Beogram 4000 from Australia that I have on my bench currently (in other words the Beolover is having some fun!..;-):

After fixing the tonearm wiring and the broken photocell in the sensor arm, this Beogram decided to give me a never experienced before new phenomenon:

After pressing OFF, the carriage returned home as it should, but after touching base, it decided to go back for an inch or so until it decided to finally come to rest. As if someone pressed ON again and then after a few milliseconds one of the < or > keys to bring the carriage to a premature stop before setting down on the record. Very strange! This was completely reproducible, i.e. happened every time I tried. Otherwise the deck seemed to perform normally.

After a bit of head scratching it occurred to me that maybe the 24V rail that controls the analog part of the control system did not shut down properly after the carriage triggered the off switch. I examined the reed relays that control the power in the Beogram 4000 and it became quickly clear that the one responsible for this 24V rail was stuck on closed.

The power supply setup in the Beogram 4000 can be a bit confusing, so a while ago I already made a schematic labeling some of the 'ingredients':

There are four reed relays (i.e. relays that are activated by a magnetic field generated by a surrounding coil to ensure galvanic separation of the circuits) that are controlled by two coils. These coils are the two big yellow items in the picture above. Each coil has two round passages into which the glass relay tubes are inserted. On either side the relays are connected with solder tabs that are inserted into the circuit board below and soldered to it on the backside. 

The upper coil relays control the 24V platter motor power and the power to the strobe light. Since the strobe light runs on about 90V that come from a dedicated secondary winding in the transformer this relay is fully insulated with shrink tubing.

The lower coil contains the 6V relay that controls the power to the digital control system inside the keypad cluster (basically the 'brain' of the 4000...;-), and the 24V relay that supplies power to the analog part of the control system (the 'muscle'...;-). 

This latter 24V relay is the one that was the root cause for the observed phenomenon. This was quickly confirmed with a multimeter, showing continuity across it even when the power plug was pulled.

Luckily there are replacements available. This shows a new Beolover Reed relay for Beogram 4000 Power Supply:

The relay exchange is slightly messy. This shows the original setup with the 24V relay still in place:

For removal of an old relay, it seems best to remove its solder tab on the left side first and then unsolder the other end of the relay from the solder tab on the right. This makes it easy to pull the relay out towards the left which is less obstructed. Be careful to not damage the very fine magnet wire that connects to the coils when you try this at home.

The first step is to remove the solder at the point where the relay connects to the tab with a solder sucker. Then the tab can be bend a bit away from the relay pin and then from the backside of the board the tab can be unsoldered and removed. The next step is to unsolder the other end of the relay and then it can be pulled out. Note that it is easy to damage the wire insulation of the red wires that are also attached to this tab. This shows the setup after removal of the relay tube:

Here a picture of the extracted original relay (top) together with the new one:

The new ones are slightly shorter but have longer pins. This makes installation relatively simple. The first step is to cut the right side pin to the proper length and then insert the relay followed by soldering it to the right tab. Then the left solder tab can be slid over the relay pin and pushed back into the PCB followed by soldering in place. The final step is soldering the relay pin to the tab and cutting the excess of the pin off. This shows the final result of the implantation:

After this procedure the Beogram performed again normally. On to finishing this project up!

Beogram 4000: An Interesting Tracking Issue and Installation of a Beolover Efficient 24V Power Supply and Main Capacitor Array

I recently received a Beogram 4000 back that I restored in February 2024 for a customer in Massachusetts due to an issue with the tracking system.

The phenomenon described was that the carriage occasionally would not track after the needle was lowered into the run in groove. I tried for some time unsuccessfully to reproduce this issue until it finally happened after I put a new record on the deck. It became clear to me at this point that it depended on the particular record played since the problem was fully reproducible with this particular record, i.e. happened every time I started the deck.

After a bit of head scratching I figured out that when facing a 'fast' run in groove, the arm would move so fast to the left, that the carriage motor was not able to keep up moving the carriage along before the tracking sensor aperture had already completely passed past the photo resistor opening in the sensor, in effect turning off the motor. The motor voltage is directly controlled by the resistance of the photo resistor and if it is dark the motor stops running.

The big question at this point was why this would happen with this particular Beogram 4000 and not with all the other ones I restored so far. 

I set out to measure the motor voltage with my oscilloscope. This trace shows the evolution of the motor voltage during regular play of a track on this Beogram 4000 as I received it:

What we see on this graph is that the motor voltage 'oscillates' and that there are larger jumps every few oscillations. It turns out that the oscillations correspond to the rotation of the platter: Note the 4s per unit time constant and that there are two oscillations per scale unit. It takes about 2s for a rotation at 33 RPM...

The voltage fluctuations are essentially a result of the eccentricity that most vinyls have to varying degree. The graph means that the carriage only weakly moves during ~6 or 7 rotations and then in one large burst after the voltage gets big enough for the motor to overcome stiction. Then the carriage drives forward until the arms are almost parallel and then the process starts again.

This suggested that the amount of light falling on the photoresistor was not enough to generate a high enough motor voltage through the H-bridge.

I decided to modify one of my standard Beolover Tracking Sensor LEDs to give the LED a bit more current to make it light up more:

After I installed the modified light source I re-calibrated the tracking feedback gain to start moving the carriage after about 3-4 rotations and measured again:

This time the curve looked like this and the carriage reacted speedily after hitting the run in groove of the record that caused the above issue. During play of the same track as above it gave me this trace on the oscilloscope. This shows that the carriage is now basically moving every rotation of the platter.

There are still a few variations between the peaks, which probably indicates a variation of the friction the motor encounters as the spindle rotates. Most spindles are not completely straight and so there is some change in friction during a rotation. It appears that each rotation of the spindle corresponds to maybe 4-5 turns of the platter. Of course this depends on the particular record since the groove density varies from record to record.

It seems this issue is fixed, but of course I am wondering why this particular Beogram 4000 needs a higher light intensity. It may be that the carriage motor itself is a bit different and turns less easily than others at a given voltage. Another possibility is that the photo resistors in the sensor are different, or from a different batch. The Beogram 4000 has two photo resistors in the tracking sensor that allow the carriage to actually track both forward and backward (this was discontinued in the later 4002 and 4004 models which only have one resistor for forward movement).

This unit seemed to track about the same in both directions when the arm was moved to the right or left manually, so I think it is not an issue with one of the resistors. If it were, I would expect that only one direction be affected. B&O has a history of making small circuit changes over the manufacturing run of a design. Maybe they simply used somewhat different resistors or there was variation between batches of them. Possibly the potentiometer for adjusting the voltage into the bulb that is normally found on the original configuration of the tracking sensor of the 4000 is an indicator that they already had this issue when they produced them, and someone calibrated the bulb intensity before Beograms were shipped out.

We may never know!...;-). Anyway, let's hope this tracking mechanism is fit for duty again!

While the unit was on my bench my customer decided to let me install one of my new efficient 24V power supply and main capacitors boards for Beogram 4000:

These boards elegantly replace the big reservoir and motor capacitor mess that is normally found in Beogram 4000s. It also updates the old-fashioned linear regulator based 24V power supply that causes a lot of power loss and heat emission in Beogram 4000s. This board will make any 4000 run more efficiently and the unit will get much less warm.

This Beogram of course already had my previous capacitor replacement kit implemented:

Out with the old

and in with the new! This shows the board bolted in. The solder pads are clearly labeled and in the right spots for easy connections:

This shows all the leads soldered to the board and the motor re-installed:

All good now with this Beogram 4000!

I will play it a bit more and then it will be time to send it back to my customer!

Beogram 4002 (Type 550x): New Main Capacitor Array with Integrated Efficient 22.8V Power Supply

Immediately after offering the new Beolover Efficient 24V Power Supply and Main Capacitors for Beogram 4000 component, I received inquiries about whether this part could also be used in AC platter motor Beogram 4002s (i.e. Types 550x).

The earlier AC-motor 4002s have a fairly similar setup when it comes to their main power supply. But there are minor differences: The rail voltage is only ~22.8V instead of 24V, and they do not splurge on a continuously powered standby mode like the Beogram 4000. But they also waste a similar amount of energy during operation due to the fact that the 45V transformer voltage is regulated down to the specified 22.8V with a Zener stabilized power transistor. This results in a nearly 50% energy loss in the 22.8V rail in the transistor.

In my design for the Beogram 4000 I replaced this setup with a modern buck converter-based design that has a DC-DC conversion efficiency in the 90-95% range. This causes the Beogram 4000 to run much cooler due to the reduced heat load. I provided a basic analysis and explanation of this setup in my original post about this design.

While the voltage difference is not really an issue, unfortunately, the different turn-on method in the 4002s without stand-by prevents the direct use of the Beogram 4000 board in the 4002s. Therefore, I designed a dedicated board for 4002s that also directly replaces the main capacitors and the voltage regulator setup. This is how the new board looks (it is available for purchase at the Beolover Store):

The many round capacitors are high-quality 105C rated Panasonic electrolytic capacitor arrays that provide the new power supply with appropriate reservoirs and couple the motor to the Wien oscillator amplifier. The row of small 'boxes' on the left is an array of Samsung X7R type ceramic capacitors that add up to the 150uF of the non-polar original electrolytic motor phase capacitor. Ceramic capacitors are much better for this application since they are inherently non-polar and they can take AC current much more easily than electrolytic capacitors. The circuit on the far end of the board is the buck converter based 22.8V power supply.

It replaces is this original setup:

The two larger capacitors on the right (0C1/2) are the in parallel connected reservoirs for feeding the voltage regulator whose transistor (0TR1) is bolted directly to the chassis right of the motor. The reason that this transistor is not on the main PCB is its significant heat dissipation that needs to be sinked efficiently. A significant part of the energy going into the Beogram is leaving it as heat at this front corner. That is the main reason that this area gets pretty hot after playing a couple records. Motor and transistor pretty much divide maybe 40% of the total heat load of the deck between them. The rest is mostly dissipated from the transformer, the solenoid (when the arm is down), the Zener that controls the regulating transistor, the incandescent light bulbs and the electronics.

The other two capacitor cans are to couple power into the motor (0C3) and to shift the motor phase by about 90% for the second winding (0C4).

This is a snippet from the circuit diagram showing the setup of the original power supply:

The buck converter that is integrated on the board basically replaces the 0TR1 transistor eliminating most of its power dissipation.

Replacing this setup with the new Beolover board is straight forward. Simply remove the capacitors and then unsolder all the wires from them and the transistor:

The transistor can/should be left in place.

Then solder the wires that were connected to the transistor to the respectively labeled pads at the bottom end of the board:

Then connect the four wires from the motor according to their color:

Here a shot from a bit further away:

Then solder the red and black wires from the rectifier:

A detail photo:

Next are the wires that go towards the PCBs: The green wire goes to the pad next to the motor wires, and the two orange and black wires to the pads on the right of the rectifier wires:

And that is it: This shows the board fully connected and bolted in:

And with the main board replaced:

Beolovely!

Like for the Beogram 4000 setup, I also measured the temperatures and currents before and after. This is what I got (33RPM, 13.2V motor voltage, arm up and carriage at rest):

Similar to the results for the Beogram 4000, a significant drop in temperatures occurred: The motor temperature dropped from 47C to 38.4C, while the temperature at the transformer went down from 38C to 34.8C. As a consequence the deck does not feel unusually warm anymore to the touch.

Beogram 4000: New Main Capacitor Array with Integrated Efficient 24V Power Supply

If you ever experienced a Beogram 4000 you probably know that it gets pretty warm after a while! The main reason for this is the 1970s style voltage regulator based power supply, which is a bit of an energy hog.

So when I decided to replace my main capacitor replacement kit with a more modern PCB based design, I thought, why not integrate a modern buck converter based 24V supply that would smoothly replace the original 24V regulator?

This is the new design that resulted (it is available for purchase at the Beolover Store, there is also a version of this board for the AC motor Beogram 4002 Type 550x):

The many round capacitors are high-quality 105C rated Panasonic electrolytic capacitors that are connected as an array to match the original reservoir capacitor values. The row of small 'boxes' on the left is an array of Samsung X7R type ceramic capacitors that add up to the 150uF of the non-polar original electrolytic motor phase capacitor. Ceramic capacitors are much better for this application since they are inherently non-polar and they can take AC current much more easily than electrolytic capacitors. The circuit on the far end of the board is the buck converter based 24V power supply.

And here an impression of an installed board:

It bolts directly into the mounting holes of the capacitor clamps of the original setup. The solder pads for the wires are in approximately the same locations as the original connections to the big capacitor cans. This makes it straight-forward to replace the old capacitors. Simply unsolder them and then tack the wires to the pads according to position and color labeling.

This is an impression of the original setup that is being replaced by the board:

This schematic tries to make sense of the wiring around the capacitors and the voltage regulator:

For the installation of the new board this diagram does not need to be fully internalized. Simply match the colors of the wires with the labels next to the solder pads. This shows the board with all the connections in place:

Note that the 'thin blue wire' from the collector of the original voltage regulator (see below) needs to be moved over to the PCB. Solder it to the pad labeled "lgt. blue" up front where also the orange wire is connected. The blue wire connects the solenoid to the 45V coming from the rectifier.

Let's discuss the Beogram 4000 24V power supply a bit. The 24V rail is the main supply and energy provider of the Beogram. The motors, light bulbs as well as the circuitry that translates the commands from the 6V powered control logic beneath the keypad into actual behaviors of the Beogram are powered by it. The 6V supply that provides power to the control logic is only a marginal energy consumer since it only drives the logic chips producing control signals.

This is a clipping from the circuit diagram that shows the 24V setup (the red dotted rectangle indicates the parts replaced by the new Beolover board):

The rectifier 0D1 is fed about 46-49V RMS from the transformer secondary. The rectified voltage is smoothened by capacitor 0C3 into an unstabilized DC voltage of about 45V. This 'rough' DC voltage is fed into the collector of 0TR1, which is set up as an emitter follower controlled by a Zener stabilized ~24V voltage at its base. At the emitter of this voltage regulator a second big capacitor 0C4 removes most of the remaining DC ripple and a stabilized ~24V rail results.

This picture shows how this circuit is implemented in the Beogram 4000:

Since this regulator circuit produces a large amount of waste heat in the transistor, the transistor itself is bolted directly to the metal enclosure in its own metal compartment. This makes for an effective heat sink. The collector of the transistor is connected to the metal bar that clamps the transistor down (the screws go in from the bottom of the enclosure). Left and right of the collector bar the base and emitter leads poke out through insulating sleeves. The big maroon colored resistor on the left is 0R1, which pulls the Zener up to the unregulated 45V from the rectifier, which is connected to the collector bar via the red wire seen on top of the picture. The Zener itself is the metal can whose cathode is soldered to the base. The anode end of the Zener is anchored to GND, which is achieved by soldering the lead to the connection point of the two negative terminals of the biggest (3000uF) capacitor cans of the setup, which are also connected to GND via the black and green wires (see schematic above).

The blue wire that goes to the same solder spot like the red wire connects directly to the top of the arm lowering solenoid. In other words the solenoid directly gets the unregulated 45V and bypasses the 0TR1 regulator (this wire needs to be moved to the Beolover PCB during installation).

I think this explains why the B&O designers chose to regulate 45V down to 24V. The solenoid needs such a high voltage to actuate reliably, and apparently they did not see fit using a transformer with a 3rd dedicated secondary winding for the 24V rail. I guess in the 1970s it did not really matter that much if a device wasted almost 50% of its energy intake...;-), because this is about what this approach 'achieved'. 

Let's have a look at different ways that can be used to convert a voltage down:

This figure shows the three main ways to go from a higher voltage to a lower voltage:

The most straight-forward way is a simple voltage divider. In this figure the 'load' represents the entire 24V connected circuitry of the Beogram. If we want to go from 45V to 24V, we simply calculate R1 according to R1=((45V-24V)*R(load))/45V and as long as the load resistance remains stable we have 24V on the load. The problem with this setup is that the current is the same in R1 and through the load. In the case 45V->24V this means that R1 dissipates almost the same heat as the load, so close to 50% of the energy is directly wasted into heat.

The next step up is the voltage regulator like it is employed in the Beogram 4000. Here we replace R1 with an emitter follower and a zener/resistor divider that puts 24V on the base of the transistor. The great improvement with this approach is that it can keep the voltage pegged to 24V regardless of variations of the load resistance. In the Beogram example, the load resistance would for instance go down as soon as the platter motor turns on, which would draw more current. Whenever the carriage is moved the load resistance goes down a little, too. And so on, bulbs on/off etc....

Since loads are rarely constant, the voltage regulator is a popular and simple way to achieve a regulated stabilized voltage rail.

But since the emitter follower basically only replaces R1 and essentially still acts as a resistor, albeit a variable one, we get a similar heat dissipation like in R1 in the simple divider. In fact, it gets even worse, since we have to feed the Zener divider, which constantly carries a current to peg the base to 24V. This current is actually fairly substantial in the Beogram setup since the regulator is a simple bipolar power transistor with a low gain, maybe in the 25-50 range. This means that the base needs to constantly carry a current that is a few percent of the collector-emitter current through the transistor into the 24V rail, proportionally increasing the heat load. Hence the big 5W power resistor!

While this approach was maybe the best approach in the 1970s, it is not used much anymore in modern designs since we have now MOSFET transistors, which can switch at high speeds with a very low heat loss due to their very low ON resistance. This enabled the development of the so called buck converter, which is able to step down voltages with high efficiency. Modern designs can achieve 90-95%, minimizing heat loss dramatically.

A very simple schematic model of such a converter is shown in the above figure. At its heart the R1 resistor is replaced with an appropriately dimensioned inductor. This inductor acts like a resistor plus energy storage due to the fact that a coil upon turn-on has a high resistance due to the EMF that is acting agains the inrush current. As the magnetic field builds up in the coil the resistance drops asymptotically towards zero. So in the end a coil is basically like a straight wire with some residual Ohmic resistance.

So how do we go from 45V to 24 with this process? This is achieved by chopping the 45V input into a high-frequency 'pulse width modulated' (PWM) signal. This results in a continuous partial ramping up of the current in the coil during the ON 'duty' cycle, and a release of the stored energy in the coil into the load during the OFF (-duty) period when the voltage is cut.

As a consequence, most of the energy in the 45-24=21V drop that is wholly dissipated in the divider and regulator circuits is instead fed into the load!

Pretty cool (in the literal sense of the word!...;-)! Of course, nothing is free in nature, and the disadvantage of this setup is that there is a bit of noise on the output voltage caused by the incessant chopping of the input voltage. This is dealt with by connecting a reservoir capacitor across the load, which stabilizes the voltage. 

The above basic circuit also omits the necessity of a feedback based control circuit that adjusts the PWM duty cycle depending on the load resistance to keep the voltage on the load constant. So this setup is in reality quite a bit more complicated than the simple regulator circuit of the Beogram. Luckily, one does not really have to deal with this 'complication'. Nowadays integrated circuits take care of all of this and one simply has to select the right external components (i.e. resistors, capacitors and the inductor) for the desired output voltage and current needs.

The two traces at the bottom of the above figure show the result of the simulation: The chopped input voltage (green) and the resulting ripple on the output voltage (blue). With a fairly modest 100u cap the ripple comes out to about 27mV, or ~0.1% of the output voltage. The Beogram has 3000uF at the output (0C4), and so it is much smaller, probably easily in the range of the original regulator output.

Let's have a look at the actual 24V supply circuit on the new Beolover board:

The big 'box' in the back is the inductor and the small 8-legged integrated circuit in front is the buck converter. The passive components around it take care of the feedback to keep the voltage constant.

Alright! On to some measurements! I measured the current draw into the 24V rail and the temperatures of the transformer and at one of the screws that bolt the motor down before and after the implantation of my new board.

It is important to state the motor voltage at which these measurements were made since this voltage directly influences the current draw of the 24V rail. This is a oscilloscope trace measured at the purple lead (the nice sine wave also demonstrates that my ceramic capacitor array works happily as motor phase capacitance):

The 13.3V amplitude I chose balances enough motor torque for sweeping dust off the record with a still reasonable current draw.

The temperature measurement location at the motor made sense since the voltage regulator is directly next to it and so I would measure the heat in the front left corner, coming from the motor and the regulator. This shows my measurement setup (Beolover PCB already installed):

The temperature meter above shows the two temperatures and the multimeter is hooked into the 45V line as current meter. The picture shows the current draw in ON condition with running platter. About 190mA go into the 24 power rail. This table shows the measurement results for the original setup vs. the new Beolover 24V supply:

The current difference in OFF condition is 70mA vs. 15mA (original vs. new) and 360mA vs. 190mA. We see that the power consumption of the 24V rail goes down by almost 50% in ON condition and about 80% in OFF (standby) condition. The better performance in standby comes from the absence of the Zener diode voltage divider, which is absent in the buck converter circuit on the Beolover board. In OFF condition the Zener divider represents the main power draw of the 24V rail.

The standby power draw of the original setup of 3.15W is pretty impressive. Considering the hours in a year (8760), this means that over a year about 27kWh are dissipated by a Beogram 4000 just by sitting on the shelf being plugged in. This is reduced to about 6kWh with the new Beolover circuit. Just to put it in perspective, 1kWh allows driving a typical electrical vehicle for about 2-3 miles. So this is a pretty substantial power waste for a standby audio device. 

This more frugal power consumption of the Beolover circuit became immediately evident in my temperature measurements. The original setup reached 47C at the motor and 41C at the transformer in ON condition (after about 1 hr runtime). In contrast, with the Beolover board installed much lower temperatures of 37C and 34C were measured, respectively. 

So in conclusion one can say that the Beolover board reduces power intake of the 24V rail by almost 50% while playing the deck, and by almost 80% while it sits in standby.

This Beogram 4000 has arrived in the modern age in power supply terms!

Beogram 8000: Strange Behavior Caused by an Intermittent 5V Supply

**********************This post is a sequel to this restoration.***************************

I declared 'mission accomplished' after restoring a Beogram 8000 recently, and I sent it back. After about 2 weeks I received an email describing some strange behavior, where it would shut down during play, but sometimes only very briefly and then start up again etc...

The Beogram was sent back to me and I had a look. First I was not able to reproduce the issue, and after playing more than 20 albums, desperation set in. So I gave it a bit of impatient rapid play and stop and other buttons, hoping to provoke a reaction. And after a while, indeed, it gave me a signal. The display showed this after it returned home after pressing STOP:

The dot on the right should not be on! This encouraged me to continue pressing buttons and I got this:

and this:

After each of these display readings I was only able to go back to normal after pulling the power plug and reconnecting. I continued working it for a while, and finally I got it to loose power briefly, and then it came back on. So I started thinking there must be a problem with the 5V supply. The 800x often has power issues, but mostly due to bad capacitors or bad solder joints on the headers that connect to the transformer block. Of course I already had re-soldered these headers and installed new capacitors, i.e. these standard root causes could be ruled out.

Since the issue seemed to be based on very brief outages or brown-outs that confused the processor, I needed to find a way to monitor circuit nodes for brief voltage dips while playing with the buttons. I decided to use the external interrupt pins (2 and 3) of an Arduino nano board, which I outfitted with a npn transistor and a 20k resistor on one pin to be able to sense higher than 5V signals, so I could also go between the transformer and the 5V regulator. After the 5V regulator the voltage is stabilized, i.e. Arduino pins can directly be connected. LEDs were used to signal power drops on each pins. This shows the board:

First, I connected the two pins to the green marked nodes in the circuit diagram to test if the 5V chain was interrupted between regulator and the plug that connects to the micro controller can:

After I was able to produce another failure the Arduino told me that on both green points the voltage briefly dropped to zero. This verified my power outage hypothesis, but did not show me where it occurred. Suspecting a bad regulator, I connected the transistor-buffered lead to the red marked spot right at the transformer-facing side of the fuse holder.

I played the buttons again, and again, and after a long time, I was still not able to reproduce the problem anymore, while before it took me always less than 5 min! This indicated to me that I might have had accidentally fixed the issue when soldering the test lead to the solder spot on the board:

It turned out that this solder spot serves to connect a black jumper wire between the fuse holder and the 5V rectifier:

So I suspected that the wire had a bad connection, and re-soldering the solder point while tacking on the measurement jumper accidentally fixed the problem. I replaced the back jumper with a new one, and had a closer look at the connector:

Indeed, the wire had pulled out a bit from the solder terminal, but was now soldered to the terminal. I suspect that some of the solder I put on the point during attaching my Arduino jumper managed to go inside the terminal, which fixed the intermittent contact.

Therefore, in conclusion, I think that the wire was loose, but still stuck inside the solder terminal, and the intermittence of the 5V supply was caused by vibrations when I pressed the buttons in quick succession etc...I will play it for some longer, but I am pretty confident that this problem may have been fixed with the new wire.

Beomaster 4000 (2406): Installation of Custom Designed Toroid Transformer - Final Impressions

I finished up the toroid transformer implantation in the Beomaster 4000 that I am currently restoring. I added a bolt to fix it in its 3D printed cradle and used the mounting plate and rubber shock absorber that came with the toroid to secure it in place. Here is an impression:

Lovely! A very happy look in my opinion! 

Then I put on the bottom plate:

and with plate installed:

This shows a the detail around the 'gills' of the Beomaster:

I like how the red shines through a bit. Since the toroid represents a performance upgrade of the Beomaster and brings its power supply into the current millennium, I like that it can be seen a bit if closely scrutinized. Putting in a toroid into a Beomaster 4000 is a bit like installing Brembo calipers on a vintage BMW 5-series, if you catch my drift...;-):

Toroids have a much improved EMI performance than conventional "EI" style transformers due to their geometry. That is the main reason why most modern low noise analog power supplies employ toroid designs.

While I am writing this post I ran the unit together with the Norwegian Beogram 4000 that I am testing right now, and I can report that it sounds absolutely awesome! No humming on any input and everything stays absolutely cool including the toroid and I am cranking it up quite a bit right now. Appropriate for Jethro Tull's Aqualung!

This pretty much concludes the restoration of this Beomaster (if nothing comes during the testing period). Here is a picture of the units with exchanged parts: