Beogram 5500 Type 5943: Operational Again

This Beogram 5500 turntable is playing records again.  I connected it to its Beomaster 5500 unit and fitted it with an MMC-2 phono cartridge.

The Beogram sounds great and the remote control functionality with the Beomaster works perfect.
These Beosystem 5500 components are ready to return home to their owner.

To get to this point from the previous post I had to go through the Beogram 5500 service manual adjustments.

The set down point and the platter speeds were the only adjustments that were out of range on this turntable.  However, there was a problem with the platter motor making an audible racket as it turned.
The sound is similar to Beogram 4002/4004 platter motors as they age and their oilite bearings dry out.

I am not setup to re-infuse the bearings right now the way Beolover restores the Beogram 4002/4004 motors. I will save this motor for restoration later and in the meantime use a spare Beogram 5500 platter motor.

Bang & Olufsen used this same 12VDC MMX-4H2RPB motor as the platter motor for a number of their turntables.  Both tangential arm and radial arm turntables from around 1984 and on. 

The replacement motor is nice and quiet so the platter rotates silently now.

For the speed adjustments there are two trimmer resistors on the Beogram 5500 controller board.

To check the speed setting I used the new Beolover RPM tool.
In order to put the Beogram 5500 into record play mode so I could measure the platter speeds I placed a 45 RPM record on the platter then paused record play.  The 45 RPM record leaves the edges of the platter with the markings exposed for the Beolover RPM tool to measure with.

The tonearm set down point for record sizes 17 cm (~7 inch) and 30 cm (~12 inch) were initially off the mark on this Beogram.  

The service manual specifies that the 17 cm set down point should be adjusted first, then the 30 cm set down point.

For the 17 cm set down point adjustment there is a black, plastic eccentric disc that moves the set down position in or out as shown in the following picture. The disc can be rotated with a flat head screwdriver.

For the 30 cm set down point adjustment there is a metal lever whose position is moved with a white, plastic (nylon) adjustment screw.  After the position is moved, a locking screw is tightened to ensure the lever position doesn't change.

Here is the 30 cm set down point after the adjustment.

Although I didn't have to adjust the Beogram 5500 record tracking sensitivity it is worth noting that I checked it.
That adjustment appears more difficult on this type of Beogram than the Beogram 400x and 800x turntables. On those turntables it is easy to disable the platter motor function and move the arm to a test track where the arm is lowered.  Once lowered, the platter is manually rotated to check the record tracking.

On the Beogram 5500 while the platter drive can easily be disabled by removing the platter belt, manually getting the arm to a test track to test the sensing of the arm position seemed difficult.
Manual operating the platter to control the arm movement and set down are rather unclear.

For this Beogram 5500 I put on a test record with the platter functional and observed the record tracking by viewing the servo motor advancement from the rear of the Beogram.

From this vantage point I was able to check platter revolutions with regard to the Servo Motor advancing the drive pulley.

I could see that this Beogram Servo Motor started advancing the arm within 2 turns of the platter after the initial set down. That is setting down on a music track...not setting down on the lead in groove.
Once set down, the Servo Motor advanced the arm every revolution of the platter.

The rest of the adjustments like the audio signal muting, arm alignments and suspension were all good so I was comfortable to install a good MMC-2 phono cartridge for the listening test.

Beomaster 8000: Shipping Back Home

After a couple of weeks of functional testing it is time to pack up this Beomaster 8000 receiver and send it home. I hooked up an FM antenna, a Beocord 9000 and a Beogram 8002 as music sources to the Beomaster. It has been a joy playing the system in my workshop while I clean up to begin work on some new projects.

This Beomaster 8000 unit came to me packed better than any I had received before. The owner had it packed in a custom kübox and filled with special foam padding that was molded to the shape of the beomaster.

Packing it back up was just a matter of putting the Beomaster in a plastic bag then onto the bottom foam mold.

The rest of the side and top mold pieces were added and this box is ready to take to the shipping office.

The shipping place will add some banding straps to the kübox and off the package will go.

I am sure the owner will love this Beomaster 8000 again...as I have for the past few weeks :-).

Beogram 8002: Strange Behavior - After PLAY Arm Just Moves 2 cm, Then Stops

A Beogram 8002 from Australia arrived for some TLC. The problem at hand was that after pressing PLAY the arm just traveled in for about 2 cm and then it stopped. While this was very reproducible on my bench the previous experience was more intermittent in that sometimes the deck would start playing normally, but then after a few minutes it would suddenly stop. 

I opened the deck up and my first guess was rotary encoder trouble. If the encoder on the carriage spindle does not work properly, the normal response of the control system is to stop playing after about 2 sec. And 2 sec is about the time it takes to travel 2 cm. This shows the relevant sections of the circuit diagram:

The rotary encoder section is in the top left quadrant. The IR diode (OPE1) is powered via the 5V rail and a 150R resistor. This results in about 1.3V at the diode. When I measured I got 5V, indicating that no current is flowing through R1, meaning that the diode had gone open circuit. This is the typical failure mode of these devices.

This shows the rotary encoder assembly removed from the aperture wheel section:

The bottom unit is the IR diode, the upper two units are the two photo diodes. Their voltages are fed into IC1/IC2 and after amplification are fed into processor pins 28/29 ("Slide Tacho"). When this signal is flat while moving the carriage (slide) the processor stops the movement after 2 sec. I replaced the IR emitter with a Optek OP240, which can be had in the same package as the original unit:

This restored the 1.3V at the diode and I was now able to measure the proper encoder signal at plug 6 Pin 13/14, but the problem did not go away. Frustrating!

My initial guess was that the encoder signal did not arrive at the processor pins. So I removed the PCB, opened up the processor EMI can and ran the unit, while measuring directly at the processor pins. Micro grabber jumper cables are really nice for such measurements! Here is an impression:

Well...the signal arrived at the processor. And I also noticed during these experiments that the deck would sometimes work, especially when freshly plugged in! The plot thickened! Working on B&O vintage units for some time now, I immediately put my money (I lost...;-) on a cracked solder joint or a hair line fracture in the PCB. So I set out to re-solder all relevant connections. Here is an impression of the processor board, solder side:

Well, al this effort did not fix the problem!

So I hooked up my oscilloscope and watched the relevant signals on the processor inputs as the issue unfolded. Finally, when monitoring pin 31 ("lift manual") I got these traces:

the green and yellow ones are the encoder signals on 28/29. The red one is the signal at pin 27 (<<), which essentially controls the carriage servo. The blue line is the signal on pin 31. And what we see is that the signal on this pin increases, and at about 3.5V (which is about where a logic HIGH starts on 5V systems) pin 27 caves turning the servo off, causing the carriage to stop as we see from the petering out signals on the encoder diodes.

This immediately suggested that something gave the processor the impression that the arm needs to be lifted and the carriage stopped.

Considering the relevant sections of the circuit diagram, it was clear to me that somehow the signal on the input opamp IC2 (same opamp package as the IC2 that amplifies one of the encoder diodes) that is hooked up to pin 31 must go high. The only way that this can happen is when the resistance of the photoresistors R9 or R10 in the << >> control housing gets too large without pressing one of the <</>> buttons. The way this control system works is that when these buttons are pressed an aperture is driven in between the light bulb IL1 and the either R9 or R10. This gradually increases their resistance, thereby raising the voltage at the corresponding IC2 turning on the carriage servo OM1 in either forward or reverse direction. While this happens the motor control signal is also fed into the opamp that connects to pin 31 via diodes D5/D6. 

All this suggested that one of the photoresistors increased its resistance by itself without pressing one of the << >> buttons. The service manual prescribes that the voltage at the resistors as measured at plug 5 pins 4 or 6 needs to be 0.61V when the buttons are not pressed. I measured 1.2V at pin 6 and 0.6 at pin 4. My first response to that was trying to adjust the screws that are in the housing allowing the reduction of the light that falls on the resistors. But I was not able to get the voltage below 1.2V. And that suggested that the photo resistor was either the wrong type or broken. This also explained the 2 sec delay before the deck would shut off, since these resistors are temperature sensitive, i.e. the lamp would heat up the resistors and the bad/wrong one then crossed the threshold at which the opamp started triggering pin 31.

I took the control panel out:

The two screws on the bulb housing are used to adjust the light intensity that arrives on the photoresistors. Then I removed the PCB from the front panel. Here is a look at the panel backside:

This shows one of the photoresistors. 

They are mounted in compartments on either side of the light bulb. Here is a picture with the bulb illuminated.

I measured the resistance on the photoresists on the 'good side' of the assembly. I found about 20k when the button was not pressed. The other side had about 75k, and there was no way to get that down.

Since the manual does not specify what type of photoresistor they used for this assembly, I needed to experiment a bit. So I bought a bunch of photoresistors with different resistances for a 'shootout'. 

A few days later, I received six different types, and I measured their resistance in the cavity with the light bulb on. I finally settled on GL5549, which is widely available on ebay. It is specified to have a dark resistance of 10M and 100-200 under illumination. But that seems to be a fairly weak light intensity. In the Beogram assembly it showed 20k with the aperture fully opened. 

While in there I decided to also replace the light bulb with a white LED (Newark 14N9428) to ensure better long term stability. I used a 1k resistor to limit the current. Here is an impression:

This shows the backside:

After verifying that the light intensity was high enough to yield the 0.61V I put everything back together, adjusted the brightness screws on the bulb housing to get the 0.61V on both sides and then fired up the deck. And it was back in business. So this appears to be fixed!