Beomaster 8000: More Output Trouble - Broken TR207 Collector Trace

After I fixed the broken PTC thermistor lead in the left output of the Beomaster 8000 that I am restoring right now, I thought I was finally done with the outputs, but no: When I tested it for a while it ran happily, and then out of a sudden the fault switch triggered again a shutdown of the output supply. This one was difficult to find since it turned out to be intermittent. After a while I finally figured out that the trace that connects the collector of TR207 (voltage gain stage) to the positive 55V rail was cracked. After removing the delaminated trace, I fixed it with magnet wire:

I like to use magnet wire for fixing traces, since the polyurethane insulation of the wire can conveniently be burned off with the soldering iron, resulting in short circuit proof connections that are insulated right up to the solder point.

Unfortunately, this did not fully fix the output issue. While the 8000 came on again reliably, I realized that my repair efforts must have caused some other problems. More trouble shooting finally yielded another broken off lead to the heat sink. It must have broken off while I lifted the board up to do fix the trace. The many alterations on this board and also the left channel suggest that the previous owner had a hard time to pinpoint the issue with the intermittent trace and the fault switch issue, and therefore the board was lifted a few times too many for replacing components finally compromising the integrity of the leads that go to the heatsink. This time the (green) lead to the base of IC205 broke at the solder terminal on the PCB. This caused this Darlington to be turned off. It was remarkable that the output still amplified under this condition. I only noticed the issue since after repairing the trace I ran the output with external power supplies while measuring the voltage drop across the R236/7 emitter resistors, which could not be raised anymore above 3 mV. This indicated that there was something wrong. After I reconnected the base of IC205 everything was finally good again. Live and learn. No Beolove without some degree of pain, I guess...;-)

Beomaster 8000: Fault Switch Gets Triggered by Disconnected PTC Thermistor

Oh well...I guess I was a bit too enthusiastic when I declared victory in my last post about the output amplifiers of the Beomaster 8000 that I am restoring right now. It turned out that there was an intermittent issue that triggered the 'fault switch' and that in turn turned off the relays that enable power to the output stages. Here is the relevant circuit as shown in the Beomaster 8000 'Technical Product Information' booklet:

Here is how it works: TR16/17 form a latch that is triggered by a >~1.5V voltage coming from the "fault output" of the output stages between R254 and R253. When the latch is set it turns on TR15, and 15V apply to R68. That pulls up the base of TR11 and it turns on, which in turn turns on TR12. This pulls up the base of TR18 and the relay looses power. This cuts the power to the output boards, and the 8000 goes silent. All other circuits remain on, i.e. the display are functioning normally etc...

The two failure modes that can trigger the latch are:

1. A DC voltage at the 'AF OUTPUT' (this usually means that one or more TIP transistors burned out due to overload or failing quiescent current trimmers
2. The heatsinks get too hot. This increases the resistance of the positive temperature coefficient (PTC) thermistor that is connected to the junction between R353 and R252 and GND. When it is cool it has about 50 Ohms which pulls the fault output to GND. If the resistance increases, a DC voltage develops due to the pull-up to 55V and the latch is triggered.

In my particular case, the receiver came on, played for about 30 sec on the left channel and then it went silent. One could also hear three clicks in rapid succession right after starting it up, which is one too many. Normal are two clicks, which correspond to the start-up sequence during which the two relays that control the current into the toroidal transformer get switched in succession to limit the inrush current into the transformer. The third click meant that the fault mechanism turned the relays off again. In the beginning I was a bit confounded by the fact that the left output was continuing playing for half a minute. It turned out that this is possible due to the charge that is in the reservoir capacitors, i.e. it shut down when the voltage dropped close to zero in these capacitors. Why it did not do that on the right side, comes from the fact that the right supply also powers the preamplifier via an attached ±30V supply. This causes the charge on the reservoir caps on the right side to dissipate more quickly.

Since the output stages showed perfect current values during my test with external power supplies, I first thought that the fault switch itself was at fault. So I tested it by grounding the fault output from the output stages, and this caused the issue to disappear.

Note: This test needs to be performed from a cold start, since the latch in the fault switch only resets when the 15V rail turns off, i.e. the Beomaster needs to be turned off for that. However, the Beomaster runs a turn-off sequence after pressing the off bar on the keypad, where the 15V remain alive for another 60-90 sec. This means that one needs to wait a couple minutes before turning it on again to see if the grounded fault output disables the fault condition.

In my case this test yielded a functioning fault switch, and therefore the issue had to be in one of the outputs! It turned out that the left stage had a PTC that was intermittently disconnected from R253/R252, which caused it to loose its ability to pull the fault output to zero at normal temperatures. The picture shows the broken white-blue striped lead that connects the PTC (which is mounted on the heatsink) to the fault switch voltage divider. The tricky part here was that the lead looked perfectly o.k. since it was attached by the insulation to the solder terminal and the lead was only broken off in the inside.

After restoring this connection, the Beomaster started working normally.

Beomaster 8000: Rebuilding the Outputs, A New Interesting Output Failure Mode, and First Startup

I started working on the Beomaster 8000 that I recently acquired via eBay on behalf of an B&O enthusiast in the UK. The 8000 is definitely one of my most favorite restoration projects. An absolutely awesome design. The Beomaster 8000 was sold under the premise to be fully working but to have had some 'amplifier trouble', which supposedly had been 'professionally' repaired. Oh well, I heard such claims before, and especially on eBay the unsuspecting buyer needs to be aware that there are not many repair outfits left who can or want to tackle these units. Instead there is a lot of amateurish effort going on with the aim to make a fast buck and turn these sought-after units around for a ransom 'in restored condition'.

With that in mind I approached this Beomaster with caution and gave it my usual 'fix outputs first and then turn it on' treatment. So I opened it up and found a fairly clean situation. However, three screws are missing under the speaker switch cover:

And the cardboard shield that is supposed to keep the solder points on the display board from shorting against the toroidal transformer was installed incorrectly:

An interesting feature is the late-series microprocessor board that has soldered on EMI can lids and a sticker that says 'Sealed unit. To be returned to the distributor for service'...we'll see to that...;-)

After I lifted the display/uProcessor boards into service position and took the input socket panel tray out I looked at the output PCBs. And I made an interesting find: The quiescent current trimmers were replaced on both channels with 47 Ohm resistors. A very creative, but questionable fix to the corroding trimmer problem that commonly leads to frying the transistors in one or both outputs when the trimmers go open circuit. Here is a picture of the left channel board:

The resistor in question is in front of the third electrolytic cap from the left. Very crafty! I hooked the right channel board up with three external power supplies providing the ±55V rails and the 15V control bias:

The multimeter shows the voltage across the two emitter resistors R236/7 as 4.7mV. This is much lower than the prescribed 18mV. Well, at least the 47 Ohm resistor errs on the 'better side' by running the output Darlingtons IC203/204 at a too low operating point. Had the 'expert' who did this elected to use the next standard resistor value of 56 Ohms, most likely the unit would have run pretty hot. The problem with running at a too low operating point is that class B amplifier cross-over distortion is introduced in the output signal since the two half-waves are not 'connecting' smoothly at the cross over point. Since all TIP141/146 pairs are slightly different, trimmers are needed to find the perfect operating point for each unit independently. 

I installed as usual 25 turn encapsulated 100 Ohm precision trimmers

in both of the output boards and also exchanged all the electrolytic capacitors with 105C level quality Japanese units. This shows the left channel:

And here is the right:

Then I ran the right board with my external supplies and adjusted the trimmer to yield 18mV across the emitter resistors:

The power supplies showed the usual 0.11A (-55V), 0.1A (+55) and a close to zero current on the 15V control voltage pin

Very good! Then I did the same for the left channel, and I was surprised: No matter to what value I would set the trimmer, the multimeter would show zero voltage across the emitter resistors. Something was not working!

I poked around and measured the voltages across the TIP141 and TIP146 'columns' in the output. The voltages seemed reasonably close to the values shown in the service manual. Very strange! Then I measured the voltage at the base of the npn Darlington (IC203) while turning the potentiometer. Nothing happened. It stayed constant at about 1V. This was strange, since the potentiometer is supposed to adjust this voltage to about 1.2V to set the operation point of the Darlington. I did the same at its pnp match (IC204) and this base changed the voltage depending on the trimmer setting. A bit of head scratching lead me to the root cause of this phenomenon: The yellow lead between the emitter of IC203 and the PCB was open circuit. I unsoldered the lead and found that it was only hanging on by a shred of insulation, but that the wire had disconnected:

I took some insulation off and soldered the lead back in, and then everything was as it should be.

Time to plug this baby in and finally turn it on:

Allright! First light! This marks the start of another Beolover restoration!