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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Beomaster 8000 Display Repair

Another Beomaster 8000 display repair marathon. I must have soldered about 280 SMD LEDs by now into these displays (it takes about 70 LEDs and this is my fourth display...;-). I basically repeated what I described in: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2012/09/beomaster-8000-display-repair-hopefully.html
Here is a pic of the outcome. I put them into my display test breadboards and ran them at 2V (~0.53 Amp):




























All segments are present. It is a good idea to do a mechanical test while the LEDs are out in the open. I give them a pretty good push and pull with a toothpick in all directions to make sure they have good contact. Since there is no solder mask the solder has a tendency to distribute on the pads, and it can be difficult to create a decent solder bump at the contact pads. Inspection with a magnifying glass is also a good idea to make sure they are aligned and centered precisely. If they are not it is difficult to get the bezels back on in a way that they block the light laterally (if the bezels are not set well and there are gaps, then light enters adjacent segments and in a dark room this can be seen...not acceptable for the beolover!). Now I will give them a 'burn in' over night and then mount the covers back on. this Beomaster 8000 is hopefully soon ready for a test in the living room!

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Beomaster 8000 Display Issues

Today I looked into the display issue on Beomaster 8000 #4 (see http://beolover.blogspot.com/2013/09/beomaster-8000-first-inspection.html). The initial suspicion that there is something wrong with the communication between the microprocessors and the displays turned out to be wrong...the missing displays segments are just broken, like in most Beomaster 8000s when they come from ebay. I extracted the balance display and inserted it into my display test fixture and biased it with ~1.7V. Only four segments showed up for the party:




























It is interesting to note that there are two 7 segment display decoders (IC1 and IC2 on the processor board (=#9)). IC1 addresses both balance and volume displays, while IC2 drives the frequency and the input displays. Which one of the two displays is on depends on the phase signal, which turns them on alternatingly at a frequency that is imperceptible by the human eye. It follows that the segment drivers are both o.k. if one of the two attached displays is showing a coherent data display (even with some display segments missing). The same is valid for the phase signals. Oh well: On to another display repair session (check out: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2012/09/beomaster-8000-display-repair-hopefully.html). I just ordered the SMD LEDs...for a consistent brightness across all four displays, I will have to do them all.

Beomaster 8000 Output Transistor Replacement

Today I checked out the output stages of my 4th Beomaster 8000. The blown fuse indicated some trouble there. Indeed a visual inspection of the two output amps revealed two darkened R236/7 power resistors, a telltale sign that the output burned out at some point. The right channel seemed to look pristine. I removed the heat sinks with the output transistors.





























To make sure I used my multimeter to measure the resistances in the 6 output transistors of both channels.





























On the right I measured high resistance values (several 100k) in the emitter-collector circuit, while on the left the resistance was less than 1 Ohm, indicating a full short circuit between the power rails.

Next I rebuilt the left output board with new electrolytic caps and a 11 turn 100Ohm trimmer for the quiet current adjustment (see post http://beolover.blogspot.com/2011/09/output-stages-testrecap.html for details on this procedure). Then I replaced the 6 output transistors (3x TIP141 and 3x TIP146). This is one of the more painful Beomaster 8000 repair procedures since one needs to extract the old transistors and then squeeze the new ones in under the springs with some heat sink compound, which always turns into a mess. I recommend to use vinyl gloves for that. Here are the dead transistors after extraction:



























Interesting to see that they were made in Italy...the good old days. The new ones that went in were from Malaysia.
The next step was firing up the left channel with bench power supplies (see again http://beolover.blogspot.com/2011/09/output-stages-testrecap.html for details). By the way, there is no problem with first turning up the +15V supply, and then slowly ramping the ±54 supplies to their max voltage, while watching the current (I usually keep the current limiters on the supplies close to turnoff to make sure that nothing adverse happens during this test)

The currents into the board (at 18mV across R236/7) were a bit higher this time:

+54V ---> 0.15amp
-54V --->0.16 amp
+15V ---> smaller than 0.01amp

Not sure why this difference...at any rate it seems the output is working again properly. After 30min the temperature on the heat sink was just slightly above ambient...like it should be.

Saturday, September 7, 2013

Beomaster 8000 - First Inspection

I bought a 4th Beomaster 8000 recently on ebay. It was listed with the usual "nothing happens when I plug it in, probably the fuse needs replacement" statements, which deterred many bidders, i.e. I got it fairly cheap. Externally it is pretty good, making it a worthwhile (my wife appears to have a different definition of 'worthwhile'...;-) project.

Today I finally got around to looking into it. A first look at the fuses on board 7 indeed revealed a blown 10A fuse (F2). F3 was o.k. This immediately suggested that probably one of the output stages burned out due to a non-contact quiet current trimmer.

I opened the Beomaster up and disconnected the power to the output amplifiers (red and black leads that connect to the boards via tabs) securing the plugs with some tape to prevent them from making accidental contact when the power is on. Then I replaced the fuse with the proper 10A quick acting type and plugged the Beomaster in. A good sign: the decimal point LED in the volume display came on, while nothing else happened.

Then I tapped one of the radio preset buttons. The Beomaster came alive, but showed strange displays:



The volume came on at 6.0, i.e. full throttle. I reset it to 2.0 with the volume store button, which seemed to work with the usual blinking of the display during the storing process. We will see if this fix is permanent or if there is some problem. The frequency display showed a local station, i.e. the radio might be o.k. Turning the rotary encoders showed that these two displays are o.k. w/o missing segments...a rarity. The other two displays showed garbage. Usually one would think that some segments are dead. However the perfect performance of the other two displays suggests that there is a deeper lying problem needing further investigation. Let the fun begin!

Beomaster 8000 Suddenly Cuts Output Stages Power (Continued)

Again my Beomaster 8000 cut out! I opened it up again, and a quick tracking of the pin 16 voltage revealed that IC4 still did not connect properly to the relay driver. It turned out that the via I thought I had fixed yesterday was still intermittent. The bad contact was on the top side of the via, not at the bottom where I resoldered it. The pic shows the three vias for pins 14-16 from the top after removal of the top part of the shield can.






























I resoldered the vias from the top side and now the Beomaster seems to run stable. Note that there is a tendency of the solder to be pulled down below when soldering the via from top on a flat laying board, i.e. the solder bump below gets larger, while from the top it appears that the solder 'vanishes'. This means that the soldering should be relatively quick, just long enough that the bump reflows properly.

Friday, September 6, 2013

Beomaster 8000 Suddenly Cuts Output Stages Power

It has been some time that I had to post something noteworthy of my B&O efforts. I guess this means that all my Beos are in a happily restored state. However, like with classic cars, one needs at least two of each no matter how perfectly restored they are. This showed last night when we indulged in one of the new Longmire episodes and suddenly in the middle of the show the Beomaster 8000 output died. A quick on/off cycle indicated that the ramp up relays on the main transformer did not switch anymore: The Beomaster was quiet like a lamb, but still turned the display on and off in an orderly way. This suggested that there was an issue with the communication between the microcontrollers and the relays. I switched out the Beomaster with one of my other units and we continued watching.

Today I opened the Beomaster up. After plugging it in and turning it on, the relays clicked like never anything happened. An intermittent problem...don't we love them?? Well, on the other hand this suggested immediately that there was a simple contact issue somewhere in the path between the responsible microcontroller (IC4) and Relay 2 on board 7. I slightly bent the microcontroller board back and forth, and promptly the relays cut out again. I followed the path from the plug to the microcontroller with my multimeter (IC4 pin #16 should pull the line to the relays down to ground when the Beomaster 8000 is on). What I found was that the via that connects the trace from pin #16 through the board right above the pin of the microcontroller had become an intermittent contact. The photo shows the three vias (in the center of the pic between "9" and "C97"). Please, note that getting there requires removal of the bottom part of the shield can that limits the RF emissions from the processors - this can be done by carefully inserting a screw driver in various positions around the can and turning its blade, thereby prying the lid off without bending it.



I had a similar problem before with the first Beomaster 8000 I restored. That one would out of a sudden go into stand-by, and not wake up anymore. In that case the pin #14 via was the culprit. I think the lesson here is that a complete restoration of a Beomaster 8000 should include the preventive measure of resoldering these vias.

Fixing was quick: I put small dabs of flux paste on the vias and then simply heated them until liquid with my soldering iron (at 380C). This restored the Beomaster to its original reliability and it is now happily back in our living room.


Friday, December 7, 2012

Beomaster 8000: Left Channel Volume Cuts Out Above 2.9

Here we go again. My second Beomaster 8000 lived happy in the living room for about 8 months. We used it everyday, and it performed like new. After all, it had a full recap and restoration and also looks basically like new! Well, now it sat on the bench again. The issue: When cranking it up above 2.9 the left channel suddenly cut out, while the right one behaved normally. I swapped it out with BM8000 #1 and we partied on on that afternoon. It is like with classic cars: You need at least two if you want continuous service...;-). Today I opened it up. The problem was quickly identified:

The volume is digitally adjusted via a 6 bit attenuator made by Analog Devices. This AD7110 chip is able to attenuate the input signal in 1.5 dB steps based on a 6 bit digital input. This gives it 64 attenuation steps, which would amount to a total of 96 dB attenuation. However, the design of the chip assigned the highest four numbers (1111XX) to an infinite attenuation. With 000000 being fully open, this gives us an attenuation range of 88.5 dB in 59 steps. This explains the 0.0-6.0 volume scale of the Beomaster 8000. The beauty of this design is that the volume display directly correlates to the binary information sent to the chip. Each ±0.1 step corresponds to a ±1 change of the binary number sent to the chip. Form follows function!

Knowing the above, the fact that the volume cut out at 2.9 immediately suggests that the most significant bit (MSB) of the 6 bit data bus was not connected anymore. A glance on the circuit diagram of board 4 shows that pin 3 (the MSB) is pulled up with a 220 Ohm resistor to 5V. According to the circuit description this is a precaution to prevent the AD7110 from opening up fully if the data bus is disconnected. In this case MSB would be set to 1 through the resistor, effectively causing an attenuation of 48 dB, preventing potentially disastrous effects should a speaker be connected in this circumstance. I concluded that the MSB must have gone open circuit, resulting in a permanent MSB=1 setting due to the resistor. Hence, after passing from 2.9 to 3.0 the attenuation reverted back to 88.5 dB. In presence of the right channel blasting loudly, this appeared as a complete loss of the left channel. In fact, after disconnecting the right speaker, the volume on the left channel recovered to the 3.0-equivalent level when increasing the volume from 3.0 to 6.0, confirming the hypothesis.

The problem was easily fixed by cleaning the pin header contacts at the left channel AD7110. The location of the chip is shown here:




The two ribbon cables connect directly to the AD7110 for each channel. The right plug is next to the AD7110 regulating the left channel. This picture shows the chip and the 6 headers connected to the bus pins of the chip:



It is strange that the chip is not labeled AD7110, but rather AD13/002 8201. But the pinout seems to be exactly that of the AD7110. Anyway, after cleaning the pins of the header (I also bent them a bit alternatingly up and down to increase the tension in the female connector), everything was fine, and the Beomaster is back in the living room!
It is interesting to note that this chip was apparently $10 in 1981(see Analog Dialogue 14(2), pp. 7, 1980 - http://www.analog.com/library/analogdialogue/cd/vol14n2.pdf) if purchased in the "100s", i.e. a single chip would have run about $20. Adjusting for inflation this corresponds to maybe $50 in todays dollars. This helps explaining why these Beomasters were quite expensive back then (but also quite advanced for the time!).