Beomaster 8000: 3D Printed Control Panel Linkage

This is the continuation of an earlier blog entry at http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/06/beomaster-8000-3d-printed-controls-lid.html

I started reassembling the recently recapped Beomaster 8000. It was time to try out the 3D printed control panel cover linkage that I had printed a few weeks ago after finding that the original linkage had cracked and lost one of its hooks. 

I put in the 3D printed part (Makerbot II, PLA, highest density), and it worked nicely - for a few openings and closings - then it popped out at the damper. This meant that my part had a slightly too wide gap on that end, which would allow the damper arm to come loose. I redesigned the part in Inventor with a 0.2 mm smaller gap, and had it printed again. This time it worked very well. The part clicked in solidly, almost too tight. I lubricated it with Ballistol, which resulted in very smooth operation. 

I made a short YouTube video that gives some more info and shows the part installed and in action:

The STL file for the linkage is posted on my website at beolover.com:(http://beolover.weebly.com/control-panel-cover-linkage.html).

Beomaster 8000: 3D Printed Controls Lid Linkage

I just received a 3D printed part for the Beomaster 8000 I am currently restoring. When it arrived I pressed "Programming" to access the controls, and the brushed aluminum cover popped open at an alarming speed, indicating that the damper was disconnected. Once opened the Beomaster up, this was confirmed. Sadly the plexiglass link lost its bottom end and therefore lost contact to the damper that prevents the cover from snapping open. Here is a picture of this sad state of affairs:

So I recently drew up this part in Autodesk Inventor, guesstimating the missing bottom end (I didn't have another 8000 open at that point to take measurements of a complete part). Then I had it 3D printed on a Makerbot II using black PLA: Here is the result:

I designed the holes a bit smaller, and then drilled them out with a 9/64 (right, lid) and a 11/64 (left, damper end) bit. The Makerbot has a hard time to get hole dimensions perfect on this size scale, and it is better to drill the material carefully to get a more machined feel for rotating joints like in this case.

I tested the part on the damper and the lid joints, and it seems to click into place fairly well...when I assemble the Beomaster again, we will see if this really worked (I am a bit concerned that it might disconnect from a joint when using the cover in a routine fashion - I will post an update on that).

Anyway,my fun with 3D printing continues!