Beomaster 8000: Speaker Switch Replacement

Another preventative measure we make on the Beomaster 8000 restorations is the replacement of the Speaker 1 and Speaker 2 selection switches. For this project I am installing a new set of switches that Beolover provided as a kit. It includes two new switches and a laser cut mounting plate so the new switches fit perfectly where the original ones did.

Here is a picture of the original switches.

The next pictures are of the Beolover replacements. It is easiest to make this replacement at this point of the project when most everything else is removed from the Beomaster cabinet.

...and here are the completed switches in their place.

Beomaster 8000 Speaker Switch Repair

I guess I was happy too early. Two days after putting the beomaster 8000 back together, out of a sudden the left channel cut out...Headphones still worked properly, so I immediately suspected the speaker switch. I plugged the speakers into the #2 outlets...still nothing on the left channel. Strange! Both switches broken? I never tried the secondary outlets, though...maybe the #2 switch was already broken...

I opened the Beomaster up again and checked...indeed both speaker switches dead on the left channel. I tried to find exact replacements, but of course drew blanks wherever I looked. I finally settled on model S201031MS02Q made by C&K. I ordered them from Mouser.com (Mouser#: 611-S201031MS02Q). These switches have a very similar sliding knob like the knob attachments of the old switches. They also travel 4 mm, identical to the old ones. This is important that they fit into the slots of the heat sink cover. But of course these new switches are lacking the PCB base of the original switches, i.e. do not fit into the slots in the Beomaster 8000 chassis. The pictures show one of the original switches (with the knob attachment removed)

This picture shows the PCB base plate removed from one of the old switches:

I modified the base plates with a Dremel tool until the new switches would fit on there exactly centered

The next step was to glue the plates onto the new switches. I used superglue gel and secured the plates with two grip pliers:

The modified switches were exactly the same height as the old ones with their knob attachments in place, i.e. the heat sink cover fit perfectly on top, and held them snugly in place like the old ones. I put everything back together only to realize that another display segment died...time to get back to SMD LED soldering practice...;-)