Beogram 8002: Recapping Complete

For the replacement of the electrolytic capacitors I will pick up where I left off...with the Beogram 8002 transformer box that I opened up. The 27uF capacitor for the motor circuit will be replaced using Beolover's nice 3D printed assembly. I like to measure the old capacitors to see how many are bad, out of tolerance or on the verge of being out of tolerance.

The original 4C1 27uF capacitor of this Beogram is out of tolerance by almost 20%. 

The replacement part just drops into the transformer box and the two leads soldered to the new 4C1 27uF capacitor. This is a bipolar capacitor so it doesn't matter which wires to connect to the capacitor module leads.

That is way better than soldering a new capacitor and letting it dangle loose inside the transformer box.

The next capacitor is the 2C28 47uF capacitor in the microcomputer case. I cleaned off the old thermal paste (that was starting to dry out) from the microcomputer integrated circuit and the heat sink. The 2C28 capacitor was replaced and new thermal paste was added to the heat sink. The replacement of the 2C28 capacitor is a little tricky as the negative side of the capacitor must be soldered to the board on both the trace side and the component side as noted by Beolover a while back.

For the Beogram 8002 main board I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors 2.2uF and less with WIMA MKS capacitors (the rectangular, red capacitors in the picture). The rest were replaced with new 105°C, long lasting electrolytic capacitors. For the large 1C27 2200uF, 50V capacitor I like to use the three prong base off an original Beogram 1C27. I had a spare base so I used it here.

The center hole is for the capacitor positive lead. I take the capacitor negative lead and solder it to the metal base. After that I use black hot glue to secure the rest of the capacitor to the base and place it on the board. This makes for a solid installation of this capacitor like the original.

The last two capacitors are on the Beogram 8002 chassis - 0C1 and 0C2. These are easy to get to. Just remove three wires (the yellow, black and blue).

The next picture shows how close together traces are on the Beogram 8002 main board. When re-flowing the solder joints of the board connectors it is best to use a smaller tip on the soldering gun. If the tip is too wide it is really easy to accidentally create solder bridges between traces. I have to use a magnified lamp when soldering on this board to tell if the result is good.

That completes the electrical restoration of the Beogram. A quick check of the work with the Beogram turntable assembly verifies that everything is good.

Now it is on to the service manual adjustments which will make sure this Beogram is ready for full use again.