Another Beogram 8002 is on the workbench for restoration and repair.
I have found that it is easier to work on repeat Bang & Olufsen audio component types rather than switching from component type to component type. The main reason being it requires configuring the workbenches with replacement parts for a given component so when repeating a component type I have less setup :-).
This new Beogram 8002 restoration project comes from the Bay Area of California.
The owner looked at our Beolover Blog recommendation for packing and did a great job of preparing the Beogram for shipment.
He double-boxed the turntable and used nice polyethylene foam for the first level of protection. Polyethylene foam has a little bit of give for cushioning but is very firm so it can protect against punctures and drops. Fortunately this shipment doesn't look like any extreme trauma was incurred.
My only criticism here was the use of the old fashioned type of styro-foam over the platter area. That type of foam breaks off in small pieces that get everywhere. I recommend using pieces of polyethylene foam instead. But...I am assuming the owner ran out of polyethylene foam so sometimes you have to make due with what you have :-).
The lever piece that fits into the hinge assembly with the damping grease is not attached to the lid.
I can also tell that the metal lid attachment to the hinge plate is still the original B&O double sided tape.
It is surprising that it is still attached. I will address the metal lid issue later.
At this point I wanted to see what state the Beogram 8002 is electrically.
Plugging it in I got the Standby dot. That is a good sign.
The platter started again and the tonearm moved to the first set down position (since I don't have a top platter installed yet).
These type of issues are typical and can be due to a number of things. All will get resolved in the restoration process.
With the tonearm assembly stuck out over the platter area it sometimes requires unplugging the Beogarm and manually turning the spindle to get it back home.
In this case I tried another trick that sometimes works.
I unplugged the Beogram and installed a top platter.
When I plugged the Beogram back in the fixed arm detector saw the empty platter and the logic in the Beogram determined it needed to return back to the home position.
I can now proceed with disassembling the rest of the components and continue the assessment.
The dustcover opening mechanism is working perfectly on this Beogram.
In this case the back panel hinge assembly is good and tight. It looks like the mounting tabs are still intact.
For that reason I prefer not to disturb it and risk damaging any of the mounting tabs. It is a bonus if the back panel is this nice and secure to the cabinet.
My method to remove the dustcover and tonearm compartment lid in this case is to pull the metal bar for the hinge. That releases the lids and doesn't disturb and any of the attachment pieces.
In either case, I have some glue residue to clean.
Now that the tonearm compartment lid is removed I am thinking that the best restoration step for that component is to replace the lid with a spare that has the lowering hinge mechanism intact.
The dustcover and tonearm compartment lids are now removed and put away for later.
I am about ready to detach the floating chassis so I can open up the Beogram to its service position.
I decided to go ahead and remove the Beogram's transformer assembly first.
After removing the three floating suspension spring clips I opened the Beogram into the service position.
Here is the Microcomputer box opened up. The thermal grease is pretty dried out. Replacing that is part of a normal restoration anyway.
With the speed sensor assembly rotated out of the way I could remove the hub and rotor.
It looks like the rotor was glued to the hub with some sort of epoxy. I was able to separate the components but normally the rotor is attached to the hub with some tacky type glue that removes easily.
I will use a removable, tacky type glue when I reassemble it.
Here is the floating chassis with the rotor and hub removed.
The dustcover fixed-hinge mount for the raising and lowering mechanism is securely attached but with the original B&O double-sided tape. That should be replaced with epoxy.
Finally there is this.
This is a nice Beomaster 8002. The electronic issues are all things that I have seen before and should easily go away with replacing the old electrolytic capacitors, reflowing solder joints and performing the service manual adjustments.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Comments and suggestions are welcome!