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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Beomaster 8000 Display Repair Marathon

****note: This post is 'historic'...Please, visit this page for my latest display repair procedure: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2012/09/beomaster-8000-display-repair-hopefully.html****

I am on a roll!!! Today, I did the displays of my second Beomaster 8000 in one setting. Desoldering all the displays at once, opening them up, putting the SMD LEDs in...it took a few hours, but they look very nice. My best result so far...I guess practice pays off...;-).

I made one further change to the procedure: I used "No Clean Flux Paste" from MG Chemicals. I realized that paste does not evaporate as quickly as the liquid flux does. This makes it possible to put flux on all locations at once and then put the SMD LEDs on in one setting. It is recommended to do them in sequence by orientation, i.e. do all vertical ones in one setting, then the horizontal ones. This speeds the process up considerably. Also reliability increases. This time I had no failed LEDs. They all withstood the toothpick stress test (yes, not only European banks get this test...;-). The "No Clean" aspect of the paste did not work. I probably put too much on there. Therefore, I washed the boards in ethanol with a toothbrush. This worked very nicely. Here some pics of the completed boards:

I like doing the balance display best now. I realized that the smaller pads in combination with the green solder mask stops the solder from spreading.  This makes it much more straight forward to get enough solder on the contact pads of the LEDs. It also prevents the solder from obstructing the bezel, which fits perfectly after the refurb without the need for Dremeling the slits to allow for the solder thickness...These pics show the balance display board:

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