Beogram 8000: Repairing The Aluminum Deck and Front Trim

It is time to clean off the old double-sided tape residue that held the Beogram aluminum deck in place and re-glue the deck down on the cabinet

These pictures show the old tape residue.

I like to use GooGone to soften up the old tape residue where I can just scrape it off. I let the GooGone set in place on the old tape for a couple of hours. This has to be done on the chassis under deck and the underneath side of the aluminum deck panel.

 When the old residue is scraped away I clean the surfaces so they will accept the new glue.

I have used new double-sided tape before in re-attaching these panels before but we have found the fit is better using epoxy with some #4 aluminum washers (used as spacers).  I placed them at the same attach points as the original tape.

I use thirty minute epoxy so it gives me time to apply the glue and adjust the panel correctly. I can clamp the panel down in three of the attach points but have to use some weights on the fourth.

The gluing procedure went well but I noticed that the front trim piece of rosewood veneer was separating from the Beogram case.

So much of the front veneer was separating that the only good solution here was to remove the veneer trim completely and clean all of the old contact cement off.

Once the trim piece and the cabinet base, where it fits, were clean I could reattach the trim piece with some new contact cement. This next picture shows the two parts clean and ready for contact cement to be applied.

Here is the cabinet with the aluminum deck and reattached trim piece.

I also cleaned out the base of the cabinet good and applied some anti-corrosion oil on the deck hinge.

Before adding the Beogram main components back into the cabinet I performed the service manual adjustment for the platter to arm height. The distance from the top of the arms to the surface of the platter should be 23mm. This turntable was initially at 21.9mm so it required some adjustment using screw "A" as shown in the picture here.

Now I could move the main Beogram components into the cabinet and give them a quick test.

Very nice. Now on to the tracking force calibration and the tangential arm tracking adjustment.

Beogram 4000: Adjusting the Platter and the Chassis

After performing all necessary restoration tasks on the Beogram 4000 that I restored during the last few weeks, I put the aluminum panels back on. I quickly realized that the platter was not flush nor centered relative to the surrounding aluminum panel. This meant I needed to adjust the chassis and platter positions. The service manual prescribes to adjust the platter first relative to the chassis, and then adjust the chassis poison relative to the enclosure, i.e. the aluminum platter surrounding the platter to create a situation where the platter is flush with the panel and also centered in the opening. In other words the task was to achieve a Beoloving situation where the Beogram looked just perfect!

I made two short videos describing the the process. Here is the first one, that describes how to adjust the platter relative to the chassis:

After the platter is adjusted the chassis can be aligned. This procedure is shown in the second video:

Well, this pretty much concludes the restoration process. I am almost sad, since I really got used to this most beautiful piece of engineering, and I will have a hard time to let this Beogram 4000 go back to its owner! I am grateful to Jacob Jensen for coming up with such wonderful designs. They enrich my life and they also got me turned on to electronics. It has been a wonderful experience the last few years! Of course I never met him, but it feels like I just lost a friend! Rest In Peace! It is Beolove!