This post discusses the upgrade and cosmetic restoration of the Beogram 4002 (Type 5513) that I just restored. See here for details on the functional restoration. My customer decided to get the Beo4 enabled Beolover Commander remote control system and the Beolover internal RIAA preamp board installed. The deck also needed a rebuilt keypad and a new plexiglass dust cover to look like new again.
This picture shows the result of my efforts:
The first step was removing the keypad to get to the output board:
The microswitches visible on the above picture are set for the standard 40dB gain and to use the B&O typical input capacitances of 56pF. If a different gain setting is desired, switches 1/2 and 5/6 can be flipped, which activates the trimmer pots right and left of the switches. With these the gain can be varied continuously between about 30 and 50 dB. This is a great feature if you have a cartridge that still sounds good but has a bit weaker output on one channel. Just set the pots to get a balanced soundstage. Or use the pots to match the volume of other audio sources on your amplifier.
While the keypad was still out it was the perfect moment for installing the Beolover Beo4 Commander Remote Control for Beogram 4002 and 4004 board. It simply plugs into the keypad connector on the main PCB:
This shows the Commander board seated next to the RIAA:
Now it was time to exchange the original smudgy keypad with a beautifully restored one:
Beolover offers keypad restoration service! Just send your keypad and we will make it like new again!
The exchange is easy. I slid the PCB with the actual switches out of the keypad
and removed the plastic parts that hold the RPM panel down:
Then I installed everything in the new keypad:
An important step is to align the plastic parts correctly that the RPM panel clicks in aligned with the left side of the keypad and that the plastic parts are parallel to the keypad sides:
Once this has been done, the keypad can be bolted back in. Since this Beogram also received the Commander the autorepeat indicator needs to be bolted in with the keypad screw:
Now it was time for a function test of the Commander. I plugged the deck in and used my Beo4 remote switched to Phono (if a Beo4 does not come up with the phono setting after pressing 'list', it can be added - see Beo4 manual). I pressed go and the carriage started moving. All good in the Beo4 Commander department:
The final part was to exchange the badly scratched plexiglass cover. It had the typical scratch marks on top
but also on the inside, probably from some transportation mishaps in the past:
If there are damages on the inside of a hood it is virtually impossible to polish it back to a like-new state. Since new reproduction hoods are available from the DKsoundparts store it is best to simply replace them. The Beolover's DKaudiolover store is stocking these hoods. They have an excellent quality and look exactly like the original ones. They are made by injection moulding, i.e. have no seams etc...
Removal of the original hood is easy. Just use a razor blade to separate the side parts of the aluminum trim and the screws can be accessed:
Then remove the bolts on both sides and the hinge can be removed. This shows the liberated metal hinge together with a new hood and aluminum trim.
Sadly, the original trim usually gets damaged during removal. It also frequently does not fit exactly on the new hood since there are small dimensional differences between original and new hoods, i.e. the bent side parts may need to be re-bent, which usually looks ugly.
While bolting in the new hood is simple (don't over-tighten the bolts, though - it may crack the plexiglass), installation of the aluminum trim is not. It needs to be precisely centered, while also aligned with the recess in the back of the plexiglass part, all while it is highly sticky. This can be daunting when done the first time. I designed centering aids that make it easy to mark the center position for the trim installation:
They clip on to the right and left ends of the side parts of the hood. The trim is then simply placed on top
and centered between the ends of the plastic parts:
I usually apply a strip of blue tape along the recess for the trim. This allows making a mark defining the aligned trim position:
The pencil mark is easily removed from the trim after installation with a finger tip. After the mark has been made the hood hinge can be bolted in:
Make sure you use the provided new screws and discard the original ones. Now the aluminum trim can be installed. I use a specially designed plastic block for bending the sides of the trim down:
Beolovely!:
Here a few more impressions of the awesome looks of this completely restored Beogram!:
