Beomaster 4400 Type 2419: Power on/off switch rebuild completed

I had some time tonight to finish preparing the rebuilt Beomaster 4400 power on/off switch for re-installation into the receiver.

My method of wiring the switch this time was to cut and fit the bus bars first. Then I attached the relative wire pieces to the bus bars before attaching everything to the switch contacts.

When I did attach the mini-assemblies to the switch contacts I used some solder shield clamps to prevent any heat from reaching the plastic switch housing.

Here is the power on/off switch fully wired back up and ready for re-installation.

I was very pleased with the wire connection results.  Now to check the switch operation again.

Very nice. I exercised the switch actuator a bunch of times and never had a case of a contact failure.
The contacts in fact remained nice and solid. No movement in them whatsoever.

This switch is ready to be re-installed.

Beomaster 4400 Type 2419: Rebuild 2 of the power on/off switch

Using the various Beomaster 4400 power on/off switch piece parts I selected the best switch components to rebuild a good switch for this project.

I secured the new switch contacts in the top housing using some instant epoxy. It is pin point so I could just place a drop around each contact coming through the housing. That secured the contacts and allowed me to test fit the two switch housing halves to make sure the contacts go into their respective slots.

Here is a picture of the contacts and actuator in the top housing half ready for mating with the lower housing.  I have the contacts that open and close turned around so that I am using the unused sides of the contacts. These refurbished contacts look way better than what switch contacts looked like previously.

So far, so good.

I installed the actuator lever and the lower housing, then checked the switch operation with an ohmmeter multiple times.  The switch operated perfectly each time.

Satisfied with the rebuilt switch I sealed the two housings with a bead of black hot glue.  This type of glue does a great job of hold things together but can easily be peeled off it access to the switch contacts is ever needed again.

The next step will be to carefully connect the switch wiring (including the two wires to my arc suppression device) without overheating the plastic switch housing.

I am also designing how I will re-attach the switch to the Beomaster 4400 switching assembly. I will need to somehow strap it in place.

Beomaster 4400 Type 2419: Rebuilding another power on/off switch

I looked over the three broken Beomaster 4400 power on/off switch components. That included two sets of pretty badly charred contacts. When I first looked at them I figured I would just toss them away. Fortunately I waiting and thought about it more. I also did a little research and confirmed that I can't just go find and purchase replacement contacts. The best thing would to be to try and salvage what I have. Then I remembered one of the most important tools in the workshop...the Dremel.

I used the Dremel and an ultrasonic cleaner to refurbish the damaged switch contacts. The results came out pretty good I think. I finished up the cleanup with a Deoxit treatment on the contacts and here is what they look like now.

Here are the cleaned up switch housings and actuators.

I have a decent selection of parts now to come up with a working Beomaster 4400 power on/off switch.

This set of components looks like my best bet.

The large switch housing piece has the hole in it from a burned contact but the rest of it looks pretty decent. After I re-install the contacts I can fill that hole with some epoxy.

For mating the two switch housing halves I can use a bead of hot glue again but I am thinking about drilling and tapping three M2 screw holes where the wide part of the housings (where the old mating tabs are). If I go that route I will use nylon M2 screws to join the parts.

Once I have the stationary switch contacts pressed back into the smaller housing I will solder on some connection wires to use when I place the switch back into the Beomaster.  I will make sure I protect the plastic switch housing when doing that soldering this time around.