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Beolover SyncDrive: DC Platter Motor Replacement for Beogram 4002 and 4004 (Type 551x and 552x)

Late Beogram 4002 and the 4004 (Types 551x and 552x), which have DC platter motors instead of the earlier synchronous AC motors usually suff...

Showing posts with label 5501. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 5501. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 11, 2023

Beogram 4002 (Type 5504): Installation of Newly Adapted Beolover RIAA Pre-Amp

After recently redesigning the Beolover internal RIAA pre-amplifier for DC-motor Beogram 4002/4 turntables, and adapting the circuit for the Beogram 4000, it was finally time for the next chapter in this design process: Adaptation of the circuit for the AC motor Beogram 4002.

The owner of the 4002 (5504) that I just restored asked me to install the RIAA and so his Beogram will be the first AC-motor 4002 featuring a Beolover RIAA!

This shows the new board:

The input jack of the board connects to a replicated Beogram style plug via a multi-lead wiring harness. The output jack on the right matches the plug that is on the output cable of this type Beogram.
Due to the large footprint of the output jack, I decided to give this design bypass switches instead of the two completely separate signal paths via separate input and output jacks that I chose for the DC motor board. The switches allow connecting the Beogram to a standard Phono input without re-installing the original output board.
A look at the backside of the board reveals a separate grounding wire that allows connecting the board ground to the chassis of the turntable. This has shown in my experiments to help if there are any 50Hz hum issues (but in some cases it also causes hum, so this is something to be tried out in your particular setup):
Here is a look at the board next to the original board that I restored when I finished this turntable:
For installation of the Beolover RIAA board, all that is required is unplugging the board

and replacing it with the Beolover RIAA board:

The only difference is that the ground wire needs to be bolted to the 'cable clamp' bolt:
This shows the board after bolting the keypad back in:
It is designed that the control features are accessible with the keypad cluster installed. This allows setting the gain and switch between RIAA and non-amplified operational modes.


Wednesday, October 27, 2021

Beogram Commander Remote Control: Successful Test of New 4002 (550x) AC Motor Version

I received a few inquiries about making the Beolover Commander remote module work with AC motor Beogram 4002s. My recent update of the Commander for Beogram 4002 and 4004 only works in DC motor Beograms since AC motor versions have no keypad plug socket on the main PCB. Their keypads are hard wired to the PCB. So I thought it would be nice to offer an AC version. But this made a redesign of the Commander module necessary.

This shows the redesigned version:


The main difference between DC and the presented AC version is an additional small breakout PCB (the long and narrow item on the picture) that can be soldered to the keypad wire-to-board solder pads. It feeds the keypad signals into a small connector that then connects to a matching connector on the Commander board. That is what the green jumper is for. The final version will come with a custom made jumper that has an appropriate length.

I thought it would be perfect to celebrate the arrival of the AC Motor Commander by implementing it for the first time in a rare early 5501 version (the first 4002 series they ever made after discontinuing the original 4000). This 5501 Beogram recently revisited my work bench from Australia due to the malfunction of the solenoid transistor and a non-working carriage motor. My customer agreed to let me delay return shipment to try out the AC Commander on his precious deck! Thank you very much!

The first step of the installation was to solder the breakout to the keypad PCB. This shows the original PCB after extracting it from the keypad assembly:



The wire harness from the main PCB connects to the pads up front from below. The two resistors on top are 22k pull-ups for the 33 and 45 RPM transistors, which seem to have been added after the fact due to operability issues in this early version. In later AC motor versions the PCB was changed and the resistors are placed on dedicated solder pads on the central part of the PCB. 
Unfortunately, on the 5501 they are a bit in the way of installing the Commander breakout board. When I tried to push them slightly out of the way for removing some of the solder on the pads, one broke apart:

I replaced them both with 20k resistors that I had in my stash. The 10% different value is not important, they only pull up the RPM switch transistors to make their ON/OFF states more reliable.
This shows the two resistors in place. They now allow some room for Commander breakout PCB:

The next step was to solder the breakout across the pads, which was easily done by putting some flux on the pads and then touching their orthogonal contact area with the soldering tip carrying a bunch of solder:

This is how it looks when the PCB is inserted back into the keypad:


The next step was bolting the Commander onto the main PCB and connecting the two connectors with the green jumper:

Then came the moment of truth, when I powered the deck up. And hurray, no magic smoke arose!

So I flashed the chip. The next step was pairing the Apple remote to the Commander board.

On the DC version Commander this involves pressing two buttons for ~6 min until the 33 RPM light comes on and the platter moves very briefly, indicating the completion of the pairing process.

I did the same here: And nothing happened! Panic arose, but pressing the Start button on the remote set the carriage in motion! So it seemed to have paired properly! 

And then it dawned on me: The AC versions does not have the 'record cleaning function', which is activated by pressing the 33 RPM key with the carriage in its home position. On the DC versions, pressing 33 RPM simply sets the platter in motion until the key is let go again. This is very convenient for wiping the platter before playing the record.
B&O probably introduced this function with the DC motor since the DC motor has a much lower torque than the AC motors, causing strong RPM fluctuations during swiping the platter. On AC motor units one can wipe the platter while the music plays, and there is almost no RPM slowdown. But with the DC motor one has to do it before actually pressing START for listening.

Anyway, so far so good! V1.0 seemed to work!

But the above made me think: It would be nice to have a record swipe functionality like on the DC models! And of course the pairing process feedback needed to be changed.

So I changed the code:
  • Instead of the 33RPM/platter twitch response to a completed pairing process, now the auto-repeat LED briefly lights up.
  • Now one can press the 'select' button on the remote for platter swiping like on a DC Beogram. This was done by replacing the absent swipe circuitry by a combination of activating START and then immediately "<" to stop the motion of the carriage. So it only moves a few mm until the 'shut off (SO)' switch is cleared that the deck can run the motor. Subsequent release of the select button activates the STOP function and the carriage goes back home and the platter motor goes off. What would we do without microcontrollers these days!!...;-)
Beolovely!! I estimate the AC Motor Commander should become available in 2-3 weeks when I will hopefully have received the proper jumpers for connecting keypad breakout and Commander board. Stay tuned!






Friday, September 25, 2020

Beogram 4002 (5503): Unit Switches Immediately to 45 RPM After Pressing Start

The Beogram 4002 (5503) that I am currently restoring exhibited a strange phenomenon when I tested it the first time after rebuilding all its functional parts (more about this process in a subsequent post):

After pressing START the carriage began to move while it immediately switched to 45 RPM. Pressing the 33 key switched it back to 33 RPM, but only as long as the key was pressed.

This immediately suggested that either TR3 or TR2 had an issue. Let's have a look at the relevant section of the circuit diagram:


This is how the speed selection works:
The base of TR3 is connected to the collector of TR4, and the base of TR4 is connected to the collector of TR3. Resistors 5R1 and 5R2 act as pull-up resistors together with the light bulbs IL1/2. I guess the resistors were added to keep the deck working even if a bulb burned out.
This causes a flip-flop behavior: When the base of TR3 is shorted to ground via the 45 switch in the keypad or TR2 (that is activated by the carriage as it travels towards the set-down point for singles), TR3 is turned off for a moment, causing its collector to go high, which in turn pulls the base of TR4 up, and that drives the collector of TR4 to GND since TR4 turns on. This then keeps the base of TR3 permanently grounded and the deck is running at 45 RPM (via switching TR6 on which changes the oscillation frequency of the Wien Oscillator to drive the AC motor at a higher RPM).
The opposite happens when the 33 key is pressed. This causes TR4 to be off and TR3 on, and so TR5 is turned on running the oscillator at a lower frequency.

I removed TR3 and checked it with my transistor tester:

Apparently it had turned into a voltage divider!...;-).
I replaced TR3 with a generic BC547B and that fixed the issue.